How to Sew Formal Tablecloths

In a formal dining room, the look of the table is key for setting the tone of the meal. A beautiful tablecloth can not only protect the table from food mess and liquid spills, but it also can serve as an ideal backdrop for a dinner party. The material you choose for your tablecloth can coordinate with a theme or the season, or match in color and print the design aesthetic of the rest of the home. With basic sewing skills, you can create an inviting tablecloth to meet your decorating needs. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Measure your table. Note of the length and width of a rectangular table. For round tables, measure the diameter.

2

Assess the "drop" of your tablecloth. The drop is the amount of material that hangs below the surface of the table. This can be as little as several inches or as much as several feet, depending on the height of your table. A long, elegant drop will create a sense of formality in the room, but it's not advisable to let the tablecloth extend to the floor.

3

Create a pattern for your tablecloth on a piece of muslin or butcher paper based on your table surface measurements and drop length. Before cutting, add two inches to each measurement on your tablecloth to account for seam allowance. A clean, professional-looking hem is essential to creating a formal tablecloth.

4

Position your pattern over your tablecloth. Pin it in place with straight pins and trace. Cut out your material and lay it flat on a surface, print-side down. On each side, fold the fabric over one inch and press it flat with an iron. Fold over one more inch and press again.

5

Pin in place any decorative detailing. Trim such as piping or a ruffle can make a charming, decorative statement to a formal tablecloth. Hide exposed trim within the fold of the hem.

6

Sew the hem of your tablecloth with a straight stitch. Be sure the weight of your tablecloth is supported on a table as you sew to prevent pulling or puckering on your seam. For a custom detail, add a zigzag or other decorative stitch in a contrasting shade along the hem.

7

Cut off any excess material or loose threads. Use a steamer or iron to smooth out any wrinkles once the tablecloth is in place.

What Can I Use to Make a Dressing Vanity?

The vanity, or dressing table, so popular in the Victorian era and again during the height of Old Hollywood is back in vogue. The dressing table is not only about function and providing a designated area to get ready for the day or evening ahead, but it is also about style. The vanity itself is only part of it; other elements include comfortable seating, storage, lighting, mirror and accessories. You don't need furniture designed specifically for a vanity, however. You have other ways to achieve the same look, feel and function of a vanity using your own personal style. Does this Spark an idea?

Whole Unit

If you already own a vanity you want to use, you are well on your way. If not, shop in your personal store and look for a desk, table, bureau or buffet table you can repurpose. The height of the piece you select should allow you to sit comfortably at the vanity and preferably allow you to pull your seating under the middle or one side of it. If nothing you already own appeals to you, shop in secondhand stores for vintage pieces and search online at an auction or classified site. If you prefer something new, vanities are widely available today at major retailers and specialty stores, and you can expand your search by including desks, tables, bureaus, and buffet tables as options. If you find a piece you want to use, but it is dated or not the right color, paint it according to your preference, and replace drawer knobs with newer ones in your style.

Pieces

Design your dressing table to suit your style and needs; using a ready-made unit isn't necessary. Create your vanity with one shelf mounted to the wall with decorative brackets, and add complementary shelving above it if desired. Leave room over your main shelf for your signature mirror. A vintage door or gate topped with a glass or Plexiglas top are other options; the glass/Plexiglas will create a smooth and even surface and also make cleaning easier. Place your repurposed top over trunks, storage cabinets, bookshelves or end tables to create the whole unit.

Seating

Traditional vanity sets often include a small stool with a low back, or no back at all, but you can select any type of seating you want. Depending on the height of your new vanity, consider an ottoman or a full-size dining room chair with a high back. Stools with built-in storage are also available in an array of colors, textures and patterns. Add a luxurious pillow to your seating for a decorative and comfortable touch.

Mirror and Lighting

A large mirror on top or over a dressing table is a signature of the traditional vanity. Shop your own inventory, and use a decorative wall mirror you already own, if possible, and do the same for lighting. Repaint mirror frames, wall sconces and lamp bases to match your dressing table color scheme, if desired, and replace lampshades with others you own or purchase.

Accessories

Decorate your vanity with accessories that make you feel good and add to the ambiance, such as candles, vintage perfume bottles, a jewelry stand or box, fresh flowers, picture frames with favorite photos and trinkets with personal meaning to you. Repurpose other household items for decorative but functional accessories; use vases, glasses, bowls, tea cups, plates and bowls to store or place items you want at your fingertips rather than ready-made storage solutions found in bed and bath stores. Add a decorative and plush rug to the foot of your new dressing table as a final touch and barefoot comfort as you prepare for the day or evening ahead.

How to Craft With Shoulder Pads

Old shoulder pads that have been removed from your clothing can be used for small art projects. Save your own or check local thrift stores and yard sales for clothing with pads. The fabric covering is either a solid coordinating color to match the garment color or a matching garment fabric. The fabric color or design will help determine the type of craft you can make. Since the shoulder pads are already covered, crafts made with shoulder pads are quick to complete.

Instructions

Shoulder Pad Angel Ornament

1

Place one shoulder pad on your work surface with the straight edge at the top. This is the angel body. Fold the points on each end of the straight edge to the center of the pad, just above the arched edge. Overlap and hot glue the points to the pad. These points are the hands on the front of the angel body. The neck is the center of the straight edge.

2

Lay the matching shoulder pad on your work surface. Pinch the center of the straight edge to the center of the arched edge. Wrap a chenille stem around the pinched pad and twist the ends. Cut off the ends of the chenille stem. This pad is the angel wings.

3

Lay the angel body with the front facing down. Apply hot glue to the wrapped chenille stem on one side of the wings. Center the wings on the back of the angel 1/2 inch from the neck edge.

4

Hot glue a 1-inch wood bead to the top front of the angel's neck. This is the angel's head. Cut an 8-inch length of 1/8-inch wide ribbon. Wrap the ribbon around the neck and tie in a knot at the back of the neck. Bring the ends of the ribbon together and tie in an overhand knot 1 inch from the end. This is the hanger for your ornament.

5

Apply craft glue to the sides, back and top of the angel's head. Form a 1-inch ball of curly doll hair by rubbing it between your palms. Flatten the ball of hair and place it over the glue on the head. Dot two eyes and a nose on the face using a fine point black permanent marker.

6

Apply craft glue to the edges of a novelty gold wedding band. Place the band on the head for the halo. Cut a 10-inch length of 1/8-inch wide ribbon. Tie the ribbon into a 2-inch bow, allowing the tails to hang loose. Apply craft glue to the back of the bow and place it on the front of the angel, below the head.

Shoulder Pad Butterfly Magnet

7

Lay a matching pair of colorful shoulder pads side by side on your work table. Turn the pads with the straight edges running horizontal and the arched edges touching in the center.

8

Pinch the two pads together from the center of the straight edge on the top shoulder pad, to the center of the straight edge on the bottom shoulder pad.

9

Wrap a chenille stem around the pinched center. Twist the ends together, leaving you with two ends of the stem sticking up. You now have a butterfly shape.

10

Lay the butterfly shape on your work surface. The pinch in the center of the top shoulder pad is the center-top of the butterfly. Shift the ends of the chenille stem between the center-top. Curl each end around your finger to shape the antennas.

11

Lay the butterfly with the chosen back side facing up. Apply craft glue to the center of the butterfly. Place a 1-inch disk magnet in the glue. Allow the glue to dry.

What Can I Put Under My Furniture to Prevent My Hardwood Floors From Scratching?

Hardwood floors are made of natural woods such as oak or maple. Favored for their beauty and value, hardwood floors are smooth and durable but can be damaged when furniture moves across the floor. The furniture weight and edges leave scratches on the floor. It is easier and less costly to put floor protection under furniture than to repair the scratched hardwood floor. Does this Spark an idea?

Glides

Furniture glides fit on the legs or under the corners of furniture. Plastic or fabric-faced glides attach to the furniture and cushion the weight while providing a buffer between the furniture and floor. Some glides have steel sleeves that fit inside or outside chair or table legs and swivel to stabilize uneven chair legs. Tube-shaped snap-on glides fit over metal sled rails, preventing scuffing and scratching when the chair is slid along the floor. For furniture legs, plastic or rubber end tips fit over chair or table legs to reduce unwanted sliding and prevent floor scratches. Use recliner grippers under recliners to reduce chair movement and protect the floor.

Felt Pads

Felt provides a smooth surface that slides across the floor. Available in thin and thick round pads and in long strips, felt attaches by adhesive to the underside of the furniture. Long-lasting, the felt is quiet and easily replaced. Thick felt pads fit on chair or table legs much like metal or plastic glides. Sliders, protective pads for moving bulky furniture such as shelves or cabinets, are often faced with felt pads. The thick felt slides easily and reduces vibration, an important factor in moving fragile or glass furniture.

Carpet

Area carpet with rubber or other padding protects hardwood floors. When seating arrangements with chairs, sofas and tables are rearranged, area carpeting protects the hardwood floors and enhances room comfort. The area rugs stabilize furniture, reducing sliding and tipping, while softening room noise. Carpet and padding act as insulation, protecting the seating area from drafts and minimizing temperature spikes. Carpet strips under cabinets and other furniture protect the hardwood floor while absorbing vibrations between the floor and furniture. Special carpet pads, attached with adhesive, allow furniture to slide across the floor without gouging the floor or splintering the furniture edges.

Considerations

When moving furniture, use special floor protectors to minimize damage to the furniture, floor and your back. Furniture sliders fit under the corners or edges of heavy furniture or appliances and slide over the floor. Legs and edges fit on dense foam, preventing furniture from sliding off the felt-faced pads.

How to Figure Tablecloth Size

A tablecloth allows you to protect the finish of your table and enhance the look of your dcor with fabric and textured finishes. Purchasing tablecloths, however, to go with all of your design choices and styles can be a laborious process, especially if you are unsure which size to purchase. By taking care in measuring your table, you can avoid buying the wrong size of tablecloth and ensure that you have a tablecloth that fits perfectly before you buy it. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Set up your table and insert any leaves just as you will have them when you use the tablecloth.

2

Measure the width of your table, if your table is rectangular or square. If your table is oval, measure the width of the table at its widest point. If your table is a circle, measure across the center point. Write your measurement down.

3

Measure the length of your table, if your table is rectangular or square. If your table is oval, measure the length of the table at its widest point. Write your measurement down.

4

Consider how far down you want your tablecloth to hang from the edge of the table to find your "drop length." Measure this length with your measuring tape from the top edge of the table. Write this measurement down.

5

Figure the proper width for a rectangular or square tablecloth by multiplying the drop length by two and adding the total to your table's width measurement. Determine the proper length of a tablecloth for your rectangular or square tablecloth by adding the doubled drop length to the table length measurement.

Figure the proper tablecloth width for your oval table by multiplying the drop length by two and adding the total to your width measurement. Determine the proper tablecloth length for your oval table by adding the doubled drop length to the oval table's length measurement.

Figure the proper tablecloth size for a circular table by multiplying the drop length by two and adding this number to your circular table's width measurement.

Write these numbers down and bring them with you when you shop for a tablecloth.

How to Decorate a Lounge Dining Room

Families have turned their formal dining rooms into home offices, libraries, guest rooms and dens. It seems the idea of a sit-down dinner in its own special room isn't quite as popular as it once may have been. If you entertain often, a lounge or club decorating scheme may be a better fit for your lifestyle than a dining room. With some paint, fabric and ambient lighting you'll soon have a comfortable lounge. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Remove the old dining room furniture from the room. Relocate it in the kitchen, sell it or give it away. You could also store it if you think you might want to return the room to a traditional dining room in the future.

2

Paint the walls a dark rich gem color such as ruby red, emerald green or sapphire blue. Black is another alternative, but it has a tendency to look Gothic rather than loungelike.

3

Install track lighting on the ceiling, including a dimmer at the light switch. Focus the lights on three or four areas of the room, depending on how big it is. These areas will be your seating areas.

4

Place a wet bar at one end of the room. If the budget doesn't allow for plumbing for a sink, use a kitchen cabinet with a marble top. Add a refrigerator in one of the cabinets. Use the other cabinet to store liquors and drink accessories and utensils.

5

Add glass shelves above the wet bar or marble-topped counter. Place wine glasses and assorted highball glasses and beer mugs on the shelves. Put a silver or other metallic tray on top of the counter. Add other silver accessories.

6

Place three low round tables in the room. The tables should have clean lines with a sophisticated flair. Glass tops or mirrored tops fit with the lounge theme. Put two or three upholstered club chairs around each table. The fabric for the upholstery should pick up the rich color you've used for the wall but include several other complementary colors as well; all-red chairs in a room with red walls is too much.

7

Put candles in glass candle holders on the tables. For special occasions and parties, place a sophisticated flower arrangement on the wet bar and smaller arrangements on each table. A bouquet of orchids would work well with an orchid plant on each table. Another alternative would be calla lilies or a bouquet of roses and roses floating in glass bowls on the table.

HTML Table With a Horizontal Scroll

You may use an HTML table to display any content that fits well within a chart, such as scores or multiplication tables. If you wish to allot a certain width for your table to fit on your website, but your content is wider, you'll need to add a horizontal scrollbar to table. However, tables do not support scrollbars, so you will have to use a workaround in order to do this effectively.

HTML Tables

Tables are an hypertext markup language element consisting of rows and columns. When a row and column intersect, they form a cell. This cell then contains text, images, links and other element. A table can consist of only one cell -- from one row and column -- or an unlimited number of cells. The basic code for a table is as follows:








Cell 1, Row 1	Cell 2, Row 1
Cell 1, Row 2	Cell 2, Row 2

Scrollbar Behaviour

By default, most containers -- including div layers -- will create horizontal and vertical scrollbars whenever the content inside the container is larger than the container itself. This allows your visitor to scroll to view the rest of the clipped content, without extending the size of the container and possibly breaking the layout of your page. When content is smaller than the container, no scrollbar appears. However, tables never show scrollbars, even when you force a scrollbar with code. Thus, you must place your entire table in another container, such as a div, to give the appearance of a scrollable table.

Scrolling Containers

You can introduce a horizontal scrollbar to your containing element, even if that element wouldn't naturally have a scrollbar with cascading stylesheets or CSS. To apply a scrollbar to the container, add the style property "scroll" with the value "scroll" and place the table inside the container, as in the following example:






Cell 1, Row 1

Cell 2, Row 1



This code will apply both a horizontal scrollbar the table, allowing your visitor to see the entirety of the content.

Considerations

Note that setting the "overflow" property to "auto" will produce both a vertical and horizontal scrollbar so you must hide the vertical scrollbar, on the "Y" axis. This method works best if your div container is slightly taller than your table and as long as the table is wider than the div. Otherwise, the scrollbar will not appear. You can force the scrollbar arrows to appear, but they won't be active, if you set the overflow value to "scroll" instead of "auto."

Table Linen Size Information

A beautiful dining table starts with quality linens of the right sizes. The linens set the backdrop for the china and table-wear, and they set the tone for the table. The mood and style of the table will suggest the size of the linens, so knowing a few guidelines will help you choose the right size of linens for your table. Does this Spark an idea?

Size and Style

A general guideline in table linen selection is that larger is more luxurious. This stems from the expense that used to be incurred in the production of fine table linens and the belief this generated that larger meant the homeowner had more money. Larger also suggests a more formal decor; short table cloths and small napkins are more suited to casual dining. For example, small napkins are more often used at a breakfast table and to-the-floor tablecloths are rarely used anywhere but at a formal banquet.

Tablecloths

Casual dining suggests a table cloth drop of 8 to 12 inches. "Drop" is the length of the table cloth from the table surface to the bottom of the hem. A rectangular table, 48 inches by 92 inches, that seats eight people requires a table cloth 64 inches by 108 inches for an 8-inch drop. For formal dining, the table cloth for this table would be 128 inches by 152 inches. (Add the table width or length plus two times the table height for this measurement). A drop to the top of the chair seat is very common in better restaurants and semi-formal home dining rooms.

Napkins

Fabric cocktail napkins are rare, but if used they are most often 6 or 7 inches square. Breakfast or small lunch tables have less room per person and the napkin should be smaller; usually these napkins are 13 to 20 inches square. The more formal the dinner, the larger the napkin. Twenty inches square is the minimum, 24 inches square is the most common, and 27 or 28 inches square is luxuriously large.

Placemats and Runners

Placemats must be large enough to accommodate the plate, side plate, cutlery and glasses for each place setting. Typically each place setting at a table is allocated 24 inches. Leaving 4 or 5 inches between placemats is standard; therefore, a placemat should be 19 to 20 inches wide. Set a "test" place setting, measure the width and depth of the setting and buy the placemat based on these measurements. The width of a runner is typically equal to 1/3 the width of the table with a drop of no more than 10 inches.

Changing Table Converter Tops

One of the essential pieces of baby furniture is a changing table, but not everyone has room for one in the nursery. A changing table converter top is a space-saving solution, allowing parents to utilize the top of a dresser or other solid surface as a space to change the baby. Converters are also a great way to save money, costing between $15 and $35 instead of the upwards of $100 for a stand-alone changing table. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Purchase a changing table converter top with a restraint strap to hold baby in place, and a contoured underside, as well as adhesive strips to prevent the converter from slipping. These can be found in most baby and children's furniture stores and many department stores.

2

Remove the adhesive strips and affix the converter top to the dresser or other solid surface you intend to use.

3

Cover the converter top with a waterproof cloth changing station cover (available in the baby department of most stores).

4

Ensure that the converter top is solidly in place before placing your baby on the surface.

How to Build a Laptop Cooling Pad

If you use your laptop computer a lot, especially for gaming or other activities that use the processor heavily, it can have overheating problems. A cooling pad can help this problem. There are multiple ways you can make a resting pad to keep your laptop cool. If you want one that assists in cooling down the computer, you can build one with a fan that is powered by the computer through a USB connection. If you just want something to give the laptop air clearance, you can build a support frame from wood and metal brackets.

Instructions

Fan Powered Pad

1

Cut a sheet of acrylic large enough for your entire computer surface. Cut a hole in the acrylic in the spot that would be directly under the computer fan. This hole must be large enough for your extra fan. If the computer has multiple fans, cut a hole for each of them and make sure the largest fan's hole is the size of your fan.

2

Snip off one connector end of the USB cable, making sure the end you leave intact has the standard connector plug that connects to the computer's port (the long, thin connector). There are four wires within the cable--red, black, green and white. Disregard the white and green cables.

3

Connect the cable's red and black wires to the same color wires on the fan. Make sure the wires are completely touching each other and secure them together with electrical tape. The red wire uses five volts of power, so the fan must be able to work with that amount.

4

Mount the fan inside the hole in the acrylic. It must be positioned so this fan is turning in the same direction as the fan within the computer. Attach it to the acrylic with fan screws or glue.

5

Glue felt circles (the type attached to the bottoms of table and chair legs) to the edges of the acrylic on the underside. This gives the cooling pad a little extra clearance and keep the acrylic from scuffing.

6

Lay the laptop on top of the cooling pad, making sure the fans line up on both. Plug the pad into one of the computer's USB ports and the fan will start up.

Cooling Frame

7

Cut the wood pieces to the same length as the laptop. Sand and smooth every part of the wood, especially around the edges, to remove any splinters.

8

Glue C-shaped or similar brackets to each of the wood pieces to form a rectangular-like frame using super glue. Wait for the glue to dry. Coat the ends of the wood and brackets where they meet with epoxy pipe sealant and wait for it to dry.

9

Position the frame so the wood pieces are on top. Glue small rubber or felt circles to the ends if your laptop doesn't have rubber pads on its underside. Lay the laptop on the wood pieces.

How to Extend Table Legs

You might want a taller table for a breakfast area or a deck. Rather than buying a new table, you may be able to extend the legs on one you already have to accommodate tall stools or taller chairs. The average height of a dining room table is between 28 and 30 inches. A bar height table is between 35 and 42 inches tall. Extending table legs 7 to 12 inches is not complicated and will save you money because you are recycling a table you already own. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Preparing the Legs

1

Turn the table upside down and remove any casters or leg protection, then turn the table to the side and place a mark 2 inches from the bottom of each leg.

2

Drill holes in the bottom of each leg up to the mark. If the table already has casters with stems, the legs will already have holes where the stems were and you may only have to use the drill to make the holes larger and slightly deeper. Sand the drilled area smooth.

3

Cut enough off of each pre-made unfinished table leg to make the height of the table between 35 and 42 inches tall. If the legs are decorative, try to cut them off in such a way that the legs will go well with the existing legs of the table. For instance, if there is a curve in the pre-made legs, cut them above the curve so that they will blend in with the table legs. Mark each pre-made leg 2 inches down from the top.

4

Drill holes to the mark in each pre-made table leg. Sand the drilled area smooth.

Attaching the Extended Legs on the Existing Table Legs

5

Cut the dowel pin into four 4 inch pieces and sand smooth the ends.

6

Turn the table upside down and place wood glue in the holes, enough to coat the sides and bottom of the hole. Place a 4 inch dowel pin in each leg. Coat the part of the exposed dowel pin with glue.

7

Deposit some glue in the bottom of each hole in each pre-made table leg. Place on top of the other end of each dowel pin and press together with the table legs. Place a sheet of plywood on top of all four legs so that each leg is under the plywood. Put the concrete block on top of the plywood to hold down the legs until thoroughly dry.

8

Use wood putty or filler the color of the table to fill in the space around where the legs meet, making sure to use the kind of putty or filler that can be stained. Let dry, then stain the attached extensions to match the table.

Turning a Dresser Into a Bathroom Sink & Vanity

Antique dressers or dressing tables make lovely statement vanities and add old-world charm to a bathroom. Converting a dresser into a bathroom vanity is simple, with the main additions being the sink and, of course, a couple of coats of waterproofing lacquer. New dressing tables in modern styles convert just as easily if an antique dresser is not up your alley. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Place a vessel sink and faucet on top of the dressing table, in the position you want them to be. A vessel sink is designed to sit on top of the vanity like a large bowl rather than recessed into the vanity counter.

2

Pencil in the position of the drain of the sink and faucet where they will be attached to the dresser and remove them for the time being.

3

Measure the diameter of the sinks drain. Attach a hole saw bit the size of the drain to a drill and drill a hole in the top of the dressing table at the place you marked with pencil. If the dresser has a drawer directly under where the sink goes, remove it before drilling. Repeat with the faucet, so you have the drain hole and faucet hole in the dressing table top.

4

Measure the position where the plumbing pipes will attach to the sink and faucet at the back of the dresser and cut holes in the back the appropriate size, as you did for the drain and faucet holes. If the dresser doesnt have a back and is more like a table or has drawers on the side with the middle section free, this is unnecessary.

5

Sand the dressing table lightly with 220-grit sandpaper and wipe over with a rag. Apply a coat of lacquer to the dressing table and let dry. Apply a further two coats of lacquer after waiting the drying time specified by the manufacturer. This will waterproof the dresser.

6

Position the sink over the drain hole, ensuring the drain and the drain hole match up. Pencil in around the base of the sink so the area between the pencil line and the drain hole will be the adhesive contact area.

7

Spread silicone adhesive on the dressing table inside the pencil lines around the drain hole. Carefully lower the sink onto the dresser, matching up the drain with the drain hole. Press down lightly on the sink to ensure maximum contact with the adhesive.

8

Install the faucet into the faucet holes. This typically requires fitting the faucet into the hole cut for it. Use silicone adhesive or plumbers putty to seal it in place, tightening the faucet washers and nuts on the underside of the dresser top. Read the faucet instructions carefully for detailed information on installing your particular model. The dressing table vanity is now ready for installation in the bathroom.

How to Use an Ikea Shelf as a Baby Changing Table

Baby changing tables are one of the most indispensable items a parent can have. Unfortunately, most changing tables can be quite expensive. If you already have an Ikea shelf or shelving system, you may be able to convert your purchase into a changing table, depending upon the shelving style. If the shelf is low, sturdy and wide enough to support a baby, with a few alterations, you may be able to use it as a changing table. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Hang the shelf on the wall using support brackets, if the shelf is intended to be hung. For best results, place multiple shelves vertically about one foot apart from each other. If the shelving system is intended to remain on the floor, such as with a bookcase, place it up against a wall, adhering it to the wall with brackets to keep it sturdy and stable.

2

Place a changing pad on the top shelf. The pad will make the shelf more comfortable for the baby and will keep the shelving material dry and clean.

3

Place diapers and wipes on the top shelf, if possible. Keeping these materials close by will make it easier to change the baby. They can be arranged at the front or back of the pad; as long as you have room to work, the placement does not matter.

4

Place additional changing materials on lower shelves, along with the diapers and wipes, if you cannot fit them on the top shelf. Keep at least a dozen diapers on the shelves at all times, as well as additional wipes, diaper rash ointment and a change of clothes for the baby. If you plan to use cloth diapers, keep at least a dozen pins on the shelves as well.

5

Place a small diaper pail on a shelf that is easy to reach. Place a plastic bag inside the pail and wrap the bag's edges over the top of the pail so that it will collect the diapers but can be easily removed. Choose a pail that is fitted with a removable top to control odors.

6

Hang fabric from the edges of the shelves to make them look more decorative. Staple, nail or glue baby-themed or soft-colored fabric to the shelves. You can either cut the fabric short so that each shelf is individually decorated but easily accessible, or you could adhere one long piece of fabric from the top shelf to hide the items stored on the lower shelves.

Wedding Table Dressing Ideas

Tying your wedding tables into your theme and reception venue is the primary way to decorate for the event. Guests spend much of the reception at their tables. Whether you are planning an elegant ball-inspired event or a casual garden wedding, table dressings and decor should complement your goals. There are many products for wedding tables available for you to choose from.

Table Coverings

Choose tablecloths that reflect the colors of your wedding or choose colors that form a neutral backdrop to the rest of your table decor. Standard covering is done with a single cloth, but adding a second over cloth adds visual interest and a luxurious look to your tables. Cover the tables with floor-length clothes in the boldest or brightest of your color theme. Place a shorter cloth on top in a lighter color or a neutral white or cream. Lace is an elegant over cloth option indoors or outside.

For glass-top or other type table you wish not to cover completely, choose decorative place mats or table runners. Stamp theme appropriate or floral designs with acrylic or fabric paints onto single color runners and mats. Choose runners with end detailing such as tassels, lace and fringe. Natural materials including grasses and bamboo provide a neutral table backdrop at your reception.

Place Settings

Each place setting should reflect the theme of the wedding and make the guests feel special. Neutral dishware in white or transparent glass complements any table decor. Choose cloth napkins that contrast with your table over cloth or match the under layer of your regular tablecloth.

Place cards should reflect the theme or the venue of your wedding. Plain white and cream cards are often difficult to read when the guests are searching for their chairs. Glue a small charm, artificial flower or shell to standard cards so they draw the eye and add to your overall design. Place card holders in the shape of bells, doves or or another shape to elevate the cards.

Favors at each place setting can be an additional design element in themselves. Avoid very large or garish favors. You want them to complement, not compete, with the other items on the table. Choose tasteful bags or pouches for each guest's favor. Other options include small favor boxes and dishes. Combine favors with the place card if your tables seem crowded. Attach a tag or stencil each guest's name onto the box or bag.

Centerpieces

There is only one rule for centerpieces: They must not interfere with conversation or views of the happy couple. Choose centerpieces that are either above or below eye level. The simplest and often most elegant centerpieces consist of wedding flowers in a simple vase.

A popular option is candles. Place candles in elegant thin holders that elevate them above eye level. Group three of these holders at various heights on a reflective dish. Scatter flower petals or glass pebbles on the dish around each holder.

There are few flowers available for fall and winter weddings. Place simple vases or urns on tabletops. Arrange a few dried flowers or bare branches in each. You can glue flower cut-outs from elegant scrapbook papers to the branches. Fruit is another late autumn and winter option. Fill elegant bowls with a a variety of fall fruits such as apples and pears. Or cut apples in half and scoop out the core and seeds. Fill a decorative bowl with water and two tbsp. of lemon juice. Place a tea light in the hollow of each apple and float them on the water.

How to Arrange Furniture in a Large Master Bedroom

Having a large bedroom may seem like an unqualified blessing, but sometimes all that space makes a room difficult to arrange. Yet, if you follow several easy steps, you can have a bedroom that looks beautiful and is comfortable to live in as well. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1




Each partner should have their own bedside table.

Place the bed's head against the longest wall in the room, to ensure its prominence. If your room's longest wall is interrupted with doors and windows, other placements are possible. Think where a king or queen would place their bed, and you'll know where to put yours.

Placing the head of the bed against the wall is the most convenient arrangement, because no one has to climb over his partner to get into or out of bed. Give each person a bedside table. While bedside tables and lamps don't have to match, having two of them gives the room symmetry and expresses equality in the relationship.

2




A place to sit other than the bed will help you enjoy your bedroom more.

Place a chaise lounge or comfortable chair off to one side for seating. If you have room for two chairs, you can have an area for talking or eating. Place the chairs either facing each other or at an angle so that two people don't have to twist around in order to chat. A small table or hassock within reach of both chairs is useful for books, drinks and feet.

3




Place a mirror near your dresser or bureau.

Place all your clothing storage pieces and mirror close to each other and the closet to save steps when you get dressed in the morning. You can even place dressers inside the closet if you have enough space.

4

Many other ideas are possible. You might include a space to exercise or a meditation corner, or put your piano and music equipment there so you can play or listen before you go to bed.

Eat-in Kitchen Table Ideas

An eat-in kitchen layout is a popular format in American homes today. This includes the usual kitchen design--such as counter space, appliances, sink, cabinets, etc. What sets an eat-in kitchen apart is the dining space. An eat-in kitchen requires a dining table, due to lack of seating in other areas, such as a bar attached to an island or existing counter. Does this Spark an idea?

Banquette

A banquette table is one of the most popular choices for an eat-in kitchen. A banquette includes a bench against a wall on one side of the table or an L-shaped bench on two sides of the table, also against the wall. A second bench or individual chairs are placed on the opposite side of the table. This is a space saver in an eat-in kitchen.

Family Table

In a home with a dining room, a traditional family table may be placed in the eat-in kitchen for simple family dinners. In this instance, a larger, more formal dining table is placed in a dining room. An eat-in kitchen table may seat up to 6 family members. It is often placed at one end of the kitchen, opposite the work area.

Mounted Table

Mounting a table against the wall with stools added for seating is another option in an eat-in kitchen. This is similar to bar seating, but the table is large enough to include the family. It does save space in the kitchen and a central leg may be added to the bottom of the table to ensure stability.

Multilevel Island

Multi-level island

A multilevel island in an eat-in kitchen may double as a table and food prep area. The lower level of the island faces into the kitchen and is used for food preparation and a work space. The upper level is used for eating meals and serving food and faces away from the sink and cabinets. This is a popular option for smaller kitchens.

How to Make a Child's Vanity Dressing Table

Your little girl wants to do everything you do, including primp and prepare herself for her adoring public. Create a small dressing table for a corner of her bedroom or a niche next to your vanity, and stock it with fake pearls, candy lipstick, a pretty brush and comb set, and a decorative tissue box. A cast-off side table with a single drawer and four legs can be cut down to size and transformed into a dreamy dressing table for a little girl. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Measure the height of an old wooden side table from surface to floor to determine where to cut the legs. Depending on the child's age and height, the vanity should be between 19 and 24 inches high, so mark the legs at the appropriate spot.

2

Cut the legs with a handsaw or jigsaw, being careful to keep the cuts level so the table won't wobble. Sand the bottom of the legs lightly to remove any rough edges. Remove the drawer knob.

3

Paint the table a light color to match the room's dcor. A lavender-tinted white goes with pinks or blues easily, and might not look too fussy if your girl isn't into pink. Allow the paint to dry between coats, but give the table at least two coats to protect it from nicks and scratches.

4

Stencil a design on the front of the drawer, marking the outlines lightly in pencil. Use a thin brush and hobby paint to outline the design in gold or a contrasting color.

5

Replace the drawer knob with a cut "crystal" knob -- Lucite, plastic or Plexiglas from the hardware store. Position the vanity against the wall.

6

Paint the frame of an ornate mirror from the flea market or the attic to match the vanity, or paint it to match the trim. Hang the mirror on the wall behind the vanity so the diva can check her hair and makeup.

7

Place a wooden step stool or a small chair with a ruffled cushion in front of the vanity and place a small vase with a single flower in front of the mirror. If the child is a toddler, an artificial flower and a waterless, unbreakable vase would be a wise choice.

How to Refinish Night Tables

A night table, or nightstand, is a small table for use next to a bed. Over time, the finish on a night table can become damaged by condensation from drinking cups and various forms of abrasion. You can rejuvenate the appearance of your nightstand by applying a new finish. If you would like to refinish your worn-looking nightstand, you must employ particular preparation and application strategies, depending on the condition of the wood.

Instructions

1

Move the night table to a ventilated area.

2

Use 120-grit sandpaper to remove the glossy varnish topcoat from the night table. Sand along with the grain until the finish appears dull. Skip this step if the table is not varnished.

3

Wipe sawdust from the table with a sticky tack cloth.

4

Cover portions of the night table you do not want stained with painter's tape. Overlap fabric dropcloths on top of plastic ones, and place these on the floor. Place the night table on the dropcloths.

5

Apply oil-based stain to the night table, using a paintbrush, manufactured for use with oil-based coatings. Wait 2 hours for the stained table to dry. Add more coats for darker results.

6

Wash the brush with mineral spirits.

7

Wait 12 hours. Apply varnish to the stained night table, using the clean paintbrush. Wait 12 hours before placing anything on the table.

How to Make Inexpensive Tablecloths for a Party

A nice tablecloth can add a sense of style and festivity to a party. Unfortunately, occasion-specific tablecloths can be expensive and are not likely to be reused often. Making your own tablecloth can save you money and make you feel less guilty about using the cloth for a single party. With a homemade tablecloth, you can impress your guests by dressing your tables with linens that reflect the theme and atmosphere of your special event.

Instructions

1

Shop for an inexpensive fabric for your tablecloth. New fabric can be quite expensive, so shop according to your budget. Look through the discount bins at a fabric store. Cheap fabric can also often be found at thrift stores or garage sales. If you do not have any sewing skills, you may choose to use cheap sheets from a discount or big box store. Make sure that you have a large enough piece of fabric to sufficiently cover your table.

2

Measure your table. Decide how much overhang you want on each side of the table and add this to your measurements. Cut your fabric to the appropriate size.

3

Hem the edges of your tablecloth. With the wrong side of the fabric facing you, starting with one side, fold a half-inch of the edge of the fabric up and over. Using a hot iron, press the edge down flat. Fold the edge over a second time and press again. Using a sewing machine with a zig-zag stitch, sew the hem closed. Repeat with the remaining four sides and press all edges.

4

Decorate your tablecloth to suit your party. Use fabric paint to paint on designs, messages or the name of the guest of honor. Use stamps and a fabric-appropriate ink pad to create a pattern.

How to Steam a Tablecloth

Tablecloths have been used throughout the world dating back to Roman times. They are made of cotton, linen or silk, among other fibers and require a direct heat source to remove wrinkles. Steaming linens and cloths removes wrinkles by driving heated moisture into the fabric to relax the fibers. While steam machines are ideal because of their larger surface area, irons with a steam setting can remove wrinkles as well. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Using a Steam Press

1

Fill the steam press with distilled water. Activate the steam press; choose your heat setting; and allow it to warm up.

2

Place a section of the tablecloth within the press and close the press for approximately 3 seconds before lifting the press lid.

3

Repeat Step 2 on each section of the tablecloth. For more aggressive wrinkles, a second pass through the press may be required.

4




Use a steam iron to press out even the most wrinkled tablecloth.

Using an Iron

5

Set up the ironing board. Fill the iron with distilled water and place the iron heat setting to the desired level. Special settings exist on an iron for cotton, linen and silk.

6

Lay a section of the tablecloth over the ironing board; gently move the iron back and forth in a downward motion, pressing the steam button to inject moisture into the fabric. Keep the iron surface moving to avoid burning the fabric. More delicate fabrics will require a lower heat setting.

7

Repeat Step 2 on each section of the tablecloth until all wrinkles are removed.

How to Make a Picnic Table

A picnic table is a fun building project that can be put together using 2 X 4s, 2 X 6s or a combination thereof. Once this project is finished and all painted up, the table can become a useful piece of furniture for your backyard. Try painting your table a bright firehouse red or a baby blue to liven up the outdoor landscape around your house. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

How To Make A Picnic Table

1

If you want you can choose a design for your picnic table. There are a lot of designs on the web and in print for picnic tables. However, for this particular picnic table we are going to design the piece of furniture as we go. Some people call this flying by the seat of your pants, but we will aim for a little higher with our terminology and put this project under the classification of furniture design. By recalling other picnic tables that we have seen, we will try to duplicate the details of construction, and reproduce a picnic table similar to one we may have seen in the city park or at a friends house.

2

Build two trusses from 2 by 4s. These will become the main support system for the table. Our truss will be 32 inches wide at the top (that is the tables surface) and 68 inches wide at the seat level. Both these pieces will be parallel with the ground. The height of the table will be 31 inches and the height of the seat 14 inches. The width of the seat will also be 14 inches and the there will be a 40-inch gap between the seats. This should be enough information to build your two trusses. After they are built the rest is easy. When building the trusses, remember that the ends of each board in the truss will be angled slightly, so that the truss sits flatly on the ground. The upright piece will cross the bottom piece at the 14-inch mark.(please note that this is 14 inches straight up from the ground) and then it will have to be properly angled so that it is flush with the top piece of the truss . See if you can cut the two horizontal pieces to length then place them on your driveway or garage floor at the correct distances apart. Then lay out two more 2 X 4s, so that they ascend at the appropriate angles. Mark the top and bottom and then cut the 2 X 4s to fit. Screw everything together with 2 inch building screws.

3

Cut 13 two by fours exactly six feet long (7 of these will be used for the table top and 3 will be used for each seat). You can make the table longer or shorter, if you wish, but all of these boards must be the same length. Next, decide on a distance that each 2 X 4 will overhang the truss. For example about eight inches sounds correct. Now, attach the two 2 x 4s to the top end of each truss leaving exactly eight inches of 2 X 4 hanging over past the edge of the truss. Once the two end pieces are screwed to each truss, the table should stand on its own, although it will be very wobbly. Continue by placing one 2 X 4 at the very edge of each seat. Now your table should have even more stability. Complete the seat by placing two more 2 X 4s at one-inch intervals. You can probably feel the table get stronger as you go. Now take the remaining 2 X 4s and fill in the tabletop leaving an even space between each piece of 2 X 4. At this point your picnic table should be starting to feel quite solid.

4

Take two pieces of 2 X 4s and make a 45-degree on each end so that the long side is 24 inches long. Since these two pieces will be used as a brace, the 45-degree cuts should go in opposite directions. Install the two braces so that they run from the center of the longer crosspiece of the truss, right up to the underneath side of the table top. Screw these two pieces tight with 2-inch wood screws and the construction phase of your table will be complete.

5

Paint your table. You will probably need two coats. The first should be a primer and then you can put a colorful color on top ot that. Stand back and admire your creation.

Items to Secure Your Tablecloth

A picnic in the park is great fun for the family. A springtime barbecue and reunion in the fresh outdoors makes everyone smile. It can disastrous, though if your tablecloth blows away or the wind picks up a corner and throws plates, cups and food onto the ground. Make sure you secure the tablecloth before adding any food, dinnerware or condiments to the table. There are several options to choose from that will make certain your tablecloth is secure. Does this Spark an idea?

Tablecloth Clips

Tablecloth clips are available in a variety of styles such as spring loaded, adjustable or stationary. The spring-loaded clips can adjust to the table and keep a strong hold. Adjustable clips are made to automatically adjust to the width of the table. Simply slide this clip onto the table over the tablecloth and no other work is required. Stationary clips have an existing opening width, so the must be matched to the depth of the table's surface. This type of clip only secures the tablecloth according to its existing specific width.

Tablecloth Weights

Enhance the aesthetics with tablecloth weights. If you have a theme for your get together, use weights that coordinate with the theme. Tablecloth weights clip to the corners of the tablecloth to hold it in place. These will secure your tablecloth and provide additional visual appeal. The weights may also become a topic of conversation for all of your guests.

Tape/Tacks

If you are dealing with a wooden table, you can tack the tablecloth to the table on all four corners. This will secure the tablecloth to the table without the need for other products. Use tape on the underside of the tablecloth if the table is concrete or a solid material. You can secure the tablecloth without altering the appearance of the table or the cloth with tacks or clips.

The Proper Height for Bedside Wall Sconces

Bedside wall sconces provide more than just decorative appeal to your bedroom. They also count as an important source of light for tasks like reading or knitting while you're in bed. Many variables determine sconce height, and the ones that apply to sconces in other areas of your home may not apply to those hanging beside your bed. Does this Spark an idea?

Identification

The wall sconce counts as one of the staples of lighting in home decorating. It's mounted onto the wall and can be powered by electricity, gas or candles. The type of light that it emits is either general or directional, depending on the design of the light. Interior decorators work with these types of lights quite a bit, because they not only provide a light source, but also work well with the decorating style.

Rules of Thumb

According to the Apartment Therapy website, there is no proper height for a wall sconce. That said, plenty of guidelines exist to determine what will be the proper height for your sconces. Generally, wall sconces should stand 5 feet from the floor and be mounted between 8 and 10 feet from one another. However, bedside wall sconces bring special challenges to lighting with a sconce; for convenience, many people have sconces in their bedrooms whose switch can be reached from a sitting position in the bed. This 5- and 8-foot rule may be too high or too wide for this situation, because they don't allow for proper reach from the bed, depending on how tall the people are and how high the bed stands from the floor.

Considerations

Height considerations exist from an aesthetic point of view, also. Avoid hanging the sconce so low that you have a bird's-eye view of the bulb. Instead it should be high enough for you not to see the top of the lamp and high enough to provide you with adequate lighting for the task at hand. Additionally, the kind of lamp you choose will affect how much light you get from a sconce. For example, a lamp that completely covers the bulb and has a dark glass shade will usually add less light to the area than one with a white frosted glass lamp.

General

The rules for wall sconces should align themselves more closely with those of bedside lamps. The sconce should hang just above shoulder height and be in close enough proximity that you can turn on the light without getting out of bed. This might follow the 5- and 8-foot rule for sconces, but if it doesn't, it's OK. The most important thing to consider is whether or not the sconce can be reached and used from a sitting position in bed.

Stage Set Ideas for a Teenager's Room

Lots of teenagers dream about a career in the theater, television or movies. To encourage these dreams, transform your teenager's bedroom into a set with a platform stage, curtains and lights. A dressing area can be created with Hollywood lights around the mirror, costumes can burst out of an armoire, and posters and event memorabilia can be used to decorate the walls. Does this Spark an idea?

A Stage

Paint one wall black. This should be a solid wall with no doors close to it on the adjacent walls. Next to the wall, build a platform stage 6 inches high that curves and is large enough to fit a twin bed lengthwise, then paint the stage black. To the black wall, attach a twin-size, wall-mounted bed that has a wooden underside, and paint the underside black. Attach a curved curtain rod to the ceiling, and hang red velvet drapes that open and close using cords.

Dressing Table

Transform a dressing table into a Hollywood glam table. Paint the dressing table white, then attach a mirror and surround it with bulb lights. Paint the rest of the room white or silver. On the wall behind the table, hang shiny silver-and-white wallpaper to add glam, and hang silky curtains on the windows in the room. To top off the look, lay a thick, white shaggy rug on the floor and place silver accent pieces around the room.

Armoire

Paint an old armoire white, and attach mirrors to the sides and face. Position the armoire open and stuff it with props, items and costumes for your teenage actress wear. Tuck photos of famous actors and actresses like postcards along the mirrors. Place a stage light on a tall easel, and point the light to shine center stage. Hang a microphone connected to a karaoke machine upside down from the ceiling so that your teen can grab the microphone easily.

Posters

On the walls, place theatrical posters and memorabilia highlighting famous shows. Include scripts and tickets. Pin paparazzi-style snapshots of your teenager to the walls as if they are afterthoughts. Add lights around his room and provide him with a microphone, and your teenager will have a stage where he can perform for his friends. To finish the look, add a star to the outside of his bedroom door.

Characteristics of Chippendale Furniture

The Chippendale style is named for Thomas Chippendale, a furniture maker in London in the mid-18th century. In 1754 he published an influential design book called "The Gentleman and Cabinet-Maker's Director." Ironically, Chippendale was not the greatest furniture maker of his time. But as historians began studying furniture of the era, his name became synonymous with the style because of his book. Does this Spark an idea?

Time Frame

The Chippendale style dates from about 1750 to 1780. It was popular in the American colonies, which continued to follow the latest trends in London. The period before Chippendale is known as Queen Anne (1725-1750). Chippendale is sometimes thought of as a more decorated version of traditional Queen Anne design. The period after is known as the Classical or Federal period (1790-1840), which emphasized simpler lines and styling in a reaction against the ostentatious aesthetic of the Chippendale period.

Characteristics

Chippendale style is sometimes referred to as rococo. It is inspired by Gothic, Chinese and French design. In the simplest terms, the Chippendale style could be considered "busy." Intricately carved patterns, the curved cabriole leg and the ball-and-claw foot are found on many pieces of Chippendale furniture. The hairy paw or scroll foot were also popular. Sometimes, the leg is completely straight without ornamentation, with a clear, angular, Chinese influence. The acanthus leaf is a repeating theme among furniture examples from the Chippendale era. Corinthian capitals are typically designed with this kind of leaf.

Chests

In the William and Mary period (1690-1725), the chest of drawers was immensely popular. But it disappeared in the Queen Anne period. It was revived in the Chippendale style, often with a curved front in an oxbow or serpentine fashion. The high chest fell out of favor in the Chippendale period. Those that were made, however, featured more elaborate decoration like other pieces of this era.

Desks

A Chippendale desk was often modeled after a chest of drawers with a drop-down writing surface. Typical details could include dentils, pilasters with Corinthian capitals, fluted corners and other complex, decorative elements.

Tables

There are a great variety of shapes and sizes of Chippendale tables. The most significant change from the Queen Anne period are more complex leg designs. Queen Anne cabriole legs would be transformed into Chippendale style with the addition of a claw-and-ball foot and perhaps acanthus leaf carvings at the "knee." The "pie crust" table first appeared in the Chippendale period. The scalloped molding around the table's edge was fluted, resembling a pie crust. The side table, which was the predecessor of the larger sideboard, appeared in the Queen Anne era. The Chippendale version of the side table was, of course, more elaborately carved.

Chairs

Chippendale chairs tend to have more intricate backs, often in the "Cupid's bow" shape across the top. The carved back could feature any number of patterns, suggested in Chippendale's book, from a variety of influences. The focus was more whimsical than precise. The chair seat is usually straight on the sides rather than the curved design from earlier periods.

How to Build a 12-Foot Farmhouse Table

Farmhouse tables are rustic, hold simplistic elegance and are large enough for a big family. Add to the primitive charm of the farmhouse table by making it yourself. The building project isn't difficult and can be accomplished in less than a weekend. Some basic carpentry skills are all you need, and if you have aged wood to add to the character of your table, all the better. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Cut the two 1-by-4 boards down to 40 inches each. Cut two of the 1-by-6-by-12-foot boards to a length of 136 inches.

2

Lay the four cut boards out to create the frame for the base of the tabletop. Put the two 40-inch boards to the inside of the two longer boards for the side of the frame. Stand them up on edge. Use the carpenter's square to make sure the joints are even at the corners. Screw in through the outer side boards and into the ends of the cross pieces using two wood screws per corner.

3

Cut 11 pieces of 2-by-2 to a length of 40 inches each. Set these inside the frame between the longer side pieces at 12-inch intervals. The last one will have a slightly shorter distance between the support and the end of the table frame. Screw in place by screwing from the outside through the side boards and into the end of each support. Use two screws for each end of each cross support.

4

Mark the point on both ends of the short sides of the frame that is the exact center. Place the first two tabletop boards alongside this center point, one to each side of the mark. The top boards are the remaining eight 12-foot boards. Align the boards so there is a 4-inch overhang on each end. Screw in place by placing three screws down through each board and into the end board of the frame. Set the screws about two inches apart across the boards. Sink the screws to the level of the wood surface or below; do not let them protrude above the wood.

5

Place the remaining boards by adding a board alongside each of the first two, and so on, until all eight of the tabletop boards have been put in place. Screw them in place the same as the first two, adding three wood screws down through the board at each end and into the end pieces of the frame.

6

Turn the tabletop over. Secure the tabletop boards to the cross supports by screwing through the supports and into the tabletop boards from the bottom. This secures the boards to the supports from the bottom and eliminates a tabletop full of screw heads to putty over.

7

Secure the leg posts while the table is still upside-down. You can use table legs with a shaped design that can be purchased at a home supply store or just plain wood posts. Set the posts into the corners of the frame. Secure by screwing through the outer boards of the frame and into the posts. Use two screws to each side of the post or leg (four per leg).

8

Turn the table upright. Fill the screw head holes with wood putty, then sand. Seal the table with a good finishing oil such as tung oil or linseed oil.

How to Hit a Ping Pong Ball

Ping pong, sometimes referred to as table tennis, is a fun, fast paced sport played by many for recreational and social interactions. Some play the sport for the health benefits, including improved hand-eye coordination, improved muscle reflexes and improved mental alertness. To be competitive at the social or recreational level, all that is necessary is a table, a few rackets, balls and knowing how to hit a few basic strokes.

Instructions

1

Prepare to hit a backhand push stroke by standing close to the table, square to where the ball is coming from. Move your hitting arm horizontally from the elbow with a short compact stroke using more of the forearm when hitting the shot. Point your free arm towards the ball for balance. Hit the ball at the top of the bounce. The racket should contact the lower, underneath side at the back of the ball. This will put a slight backspin on the ball.

2

Stand close to the table with a sideways stance, left foot ahead of the right foot, in preparation to hit a forehand drive. Use a medium swing as your hitting arm moves forward and in an upwards direction. The ball should be hit when it is at the top of the bounce and the racket face should be slightly closed. This is when the hitting surface is angled downwards, allowing you to put topspin on the ball. As you execute the swing, shift your weight from the right to left foot and open your shoulders so that your chest is facing the net at the end of the stroke.

3

Hit a backhand drive by standing close to the table and square to the ball, in a similar fashion as when hitting a backhand push. Your feet should be slightly wider than shoulder width apart and knees bent. This is a compact stroke, using more of your forearm when hitting this shot. Contact the ball out in front of your body, at the top of the bounce and point the racket in the direction you want the ball to go. The racket should be slightly closed at contact, allowing you to put topspin on the ball.

4

Rally for position or try and force your opponent to hit the ball in the net with a chop shot. To hit this shot, you must have a firm wrist. Contact the ball on the underneath side, hitting downwards and outwards towards your target. This puts backspin on the ball, keeping it low, forcing your opponent to hit the ball up over the net giving you an opportunity to hit a point ending shot. Experiment with the amount of spin that can be achieved by varying the amount of wrist action used.

How to Use Tables Instead of Desks in a Classroom

The layout of a classroom is an important tool for teachers to use to their advantage. It is important to ensure that all of the students can see the board and that the teacher can keep an eye on all of the students. However, this does not mean that the teacher must use the traditional school layout of desks positioned in rows. Teachers have been getting more creative, sometimes using tables instead of desks to create their classroom layout.

Instructions

1

Position the tables in a formation that allows all students to be able to clearly see you and the board. Rows of tables parallel to the front or in a U-shape work well. Smaller tables that allow students to sit in groups can also be used.

2

Place chairs only on one side of the table unless you are using smaller tables for groups. Position the chairs so each student has ample room to work and the cheating temptation is low. A 6- or 8-foot banquet-sized table should be able to seat three to four students, depending on their size.

3

Organize a seating arrangement so students will interact well without getting into trouble. Avoid placing talkative students immediately next to each other or students that may tease each other or cause other problems.

4

Split tables up for group activities if you are not already using smaller tables to create groups. One of the benefits of using tables instead of desks is the ability to easily move the tables around.