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Friday, August 30, 2013

How to Build a Half Round Table

How to Build a Half Round Table

Half round tables combine style and function to entrance ways and dining rooms. An elegant choice of wood crafted with focus and consideration results in an organic decorative feature for the home. Although building your own half round table might seem arduous at first, the majority of time and focus needed revolves around the sanding and staining of the wood. A table constructed out of materials such as walnut and hickory can cost several-hundred dollars in stores, but building one at home will cost much less. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Lay the boards down in a walnut-hickory-walnut-hickory pattern so you have a 2-foot by 4-foot area of wood. Glue the edges of the boards together by wiping the edges off with a damp cloth and then applying a bead of glue. There should be plenty of glue so that when it is clamped, the glue is squeezed out evenly. Secure the clamps around the wood and be sure the wood is flush. Set time for the glue is listed on the bottle.

    2

    Remove clamps once the glue is dry. Measure on the 4-foot side, 2 feet to the middle. Place a thumbtack at this measurement on the edge. Tie a 2-foot piece of string to the tack, and tie the other end to a pencil. Draw an arc across the table top by using the length of your string as a guide.

    3

    Cut along the arc with your jigsaw. Be sure to cut carefully; the more jagged edges there are, the more sanding you will have to do. Sand both sides of the table and the round edge with the belt sander so it is smooth.

    4
    A different choice in router bit can change the appearence of your table.
    A different choice in router bit can change the appearence of your table.

    Rout out a round edge on both sides with your 3/8-inch angled bit. Be sure to wear safety glasses. If you perform this process fast your are likely to split wood, however if you perform it too slow you will end up with burn marks in the wood.

    5

    Attach the prefabricated table legs to the table. Sand the table top and the legs with the medium-grade sand paper, and then with the fine-grade sand paper. The more time that is taken with this step, the more professional this table will look.

    6

    Apply wood stain and let dry. Apply the polyurethane and let dry.

How to Create a Dressing Area

A good beauty regime begins with a special dressing space. Mundane grooming rituals like getting dressed and applying makeup feel more indulgent when taking place in sumptuous surroundings. Check out the information below for ideas on creating a dynamite dressing area. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Dedicate an area to dressing, primping and preening. Consider the unique layout and size of your quarters when choosing a suitable dressing space. This may be an entire room, a large closet or a designated spot in the bedroom. Ideally you'll have enough room to accommodate a vanity or dressing table with enough wall space for a mirror and proper lighting.

    2

    Clear a space and situate your dressing station. This may come in the form of an antique vanity, small desk or simple wooden table. Place a stool, bench or chair in front of your vanity and hang a mirror and lighting. If you don't have the wall space, prop the mirror up on your table. Consider a lighted makeup mirror to save space.

    3

    Glamorize your space. Your dressing area should be within reach of accessories and special beauty products. Decide what items you want readily available to you while seated at your dressing station. Hair brushes, lotions and perfumes are just a few items that will personalize your special space.

    4

    Work in the details. Add decorative touches like romantic candles and vases with fresh flowers. Use a feminine jewelry box and display special mementoes to personalize your primping station. Integrate creative accessories like feather boas for a whimsical feel. Drape boas or scarves over your mirror or hang necklaces and colorful baubles for eclectic style.

Tuesday, August 27, 2013

How to Make a Barnwood Table

How to Make a Barnwood Table

Wood reclaimed from a barn is aged beautifully and has loads of character. Barnwood is the ideal choice of wood if you are looking to create a rustic, farmhouse-style table. Solid, handcrafted tables of reclaimed barn lumber cost a pretty penny if store bought, so you will save cash as well as get an attractive table if you make it yourself. A barnwood table would be well-accompanied by barnwood trestle benches. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Form a frame using four planks of 1-by-4 lumber: two each of the 66-inch and 32-inch lengths. Place the shorter planks inside the longer ones. These are the side and end aprons of the table.

    2

    Square the corners of the apron frame then use a band clamp to keep the frame in place while you connect the frame with two 2-inch countersunk screws driven through the 66-inch side aprons into the ends of the 32-inch end aprons. Remove the band clamp once the frame is secure.

    3

    Fit five planks of 32-inch 1-by-2 lumber into the apron frame, parallel with the end aprons and spaced evenly along the frame. Push them down to be even with the bottom of the frame. Secure these support planks as you did with the apron frame.

    4

    Lay three planks of 70-inch 1-by-12 lumber side-by-side to create the tabletop, which will be 36-by-70 inches. Apply glue to the planks on the edges that touch, and secure the planks together with band clamps to hold them in place while the glue sets. Examine the table and choose a top side, which you should place face-down at this point.

    5

    Smear glue onto the bottom of the apron frame as well as the support planks, then place the frame and support planks centered on the tabletop, which is still face down with the underside exposed. Secure the frame tightly to the table top with G-clamps while the glue dries.

    6

    Secure the tabletop to the support planks of the apron frame with two countersunk 1 5/8-inch screws through the support planks into the underside of each of the tabletop planks.

    7

    Fit a 29-inch piece of 4-by-4 lumber into each corner of the apron frame, standing them upright, for the table legs. Hold the legs firmly in the corners with G-clamps and secure them in place with two 2 3/4-inch lag bolts countersunk through each side of the frame corner into each leg; use four bolts per leg.

    8

    Turn the tabletop, with apron frame and legs attached, upright. Sand the table using sandpaper, either by hand or with a sander, then use the wood finish of your choosing to complete the table. A wax or oil finish will be in keeping with the rustic vibe of a barnwood table.

Monday, August 26, 2013

How to Make a Wooden Farm Table

The farm table is an American tradition. They were often built by the families who intended to use them--not by cabinetmakers--resulting in a simple but strongly constructed piece of furniture tailored to individual needs. Almost anyone with simple woodworking skills can build one.

The six-foot farm table described here follows that tradition. It is built from standard dimension pine lumber, using simple butt joinery and box nails. Screws may be substituted if desired, but box nails suit this rustic style. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Attach one of the side rails to two of the legs. The top edge of the side rail will be even with the top of the legs, and it will form a 90-degree angle with the sides of the legs. Spread a layer of glue between the leg and rail where they overlap, and use three box nails to secure each end of the rail to a leg. The nails should not form a straight line with each other; stagger them, to reduce the possibility of splitting the wood. Use the damp cloth to remove any glue that squeezes out of the joint.
    When assembled, the side rail and legs should form a U-shape.

    2

    Repeat process with another side rail and the remaining two legs. Allow both sets of legs to dry.

    3

    Attach one of the leg assemblies to a side rail. The end rail should be positioned closest to the end of the long rail, so that the rails appear to wrap around the legs. Again, apply a layer of glue between the long side rail and leg assemblies where they overlap, then use three box nails (staggered, as before) to secure the rail to the leg and use the damp cloth to remove excess glue.

    4

    Repeat this procedure with the other leg assembly, then attach the other long side rail to the leg assemblies. When this is complete, the four rails will form a frame supported by four legs.

    5

    Attach the remaining 2x4 rail as a support for the top. This rail will fit inside the frame, approximately halfway between the leg assemblies. Spread a layer of glue on the cut ends of this rail, fit it into the frame, and drive two box nails through each of the side rails into the ends of this support. Remove excess glue with the damp cloth. Allow this entire frame-and-legs assembly to dry.

    6

    Use the measuring tape to find the center point on each of the end rails, and mark each rail with the pencil. Place two of the table top boards together on top of the frame, aligning the joint between them over the pencil marks. Place three box nails (staggered) through each board into the end rails and the center support, for a total of nine nails per board. Continue to add boards and nail them to the frame until the top is complete.

    7

    Sand as necessary and finish the table with the wood stain of your choice, using the applicator.

Homemade Over the Bed Tables

Homemade Over the Bed Tables

Over the bed tables are used to provide meals and work surfaces to an individual who is in bed. These tables can be extremely expensive to purchase which makes creating your own over the bed table a cost effective solution. With less than fifty dollars you can build an over the bed table that can slide up and down the length of the bed. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Place the piece of 3/4-inch plywood that is 16 inches by 48 inches horizontally on a flat surface. This section is used as the table top for the over the bed table. Place a 2 inch by 48 inch piece of plywood along each 48 inch edge of the 16 inch by 48 inch section so the 3/4-inch edge is running along the top edge. The 2 inch by 48 inch sections of plywood are added for additional support across the table top surface.

    2

    Drive one 2 1/2-inch screw every 6 inches along the length of each 2 inch by 48 inch long section to attach it to the 16 inch by 48 inch piece of plywood. Use a Phillips-head drill bit and a drill to drive screws through the wood. This will join the two 2 inch by 48 inch support sections to the bottom side of the table top.

    3

    Place one 16 inch by 36 inch section of wood along each 16 inch end of the table top, lining the 16-inch edges up with the bottom of the 16 inch by 48 inch wood. The table top should face downward so the 2 inch by 48 inch sections of plywood are running along the top exposed side of the wood. The 16 inch by 36 inch sections of plywood are placed at each end and attached as legs for the table.

    4

    Drive two 2 1/2-inch screws through the 16 inch by 36 inch section of plywood to join the 2 inch by 48 inch wood sections. Drive one screw at each corner of the 16 inch edge and drive two evenly spaced screws across the center of the 16-inch edge to join the table legs to the tabletop.

    5

    Repeat step four at the opposite end of the table top to permanently join the legs to the table top.

    6

    Place one wheel at each corner of the 16 inch by 36 inch wood section along the 16 inch edge. Attach to wood using two 1-inch screws for each wheel.

    7

    Flip the table over and rest it on the wheels. Slide it up the bed from the end.

Sunday, August 25, 2013

How to Choose Lamps for a Bedroom

How to Choose Lamps for a Bedroom

Homeowners often underestimate the lighting needs in their bedrooms. Many people don't think further than adding an overhead light fixture and a reading lamp by the side of the bed. However, lamps in a bedroom can help create a romantic mood, provide safety and security, and make the room more functional. There is no exact formula for choosing bedroom lights; function, style, budget and personal preference all play a part in finding the lamps that work best for you. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Sit in your bedroom with all the existing lights on. Look for poorly illuminated spots that you wish to brighten up. Plan to buy tall floor lamps capable of holding high-wattage bulbs if you have large spaces that need lighting. Buy smaller lamps for task lighting, such as bedside reading tables or desks. Look for places where you might use small uplights for soft, ambient lighting.

    2

    Assess the function lamps will fulfill in your bedroom. For instance, a light that responds to sound or touch may be perfect in a child's room, but could prove annoying in an adult bedroom. Turn on your existing bedside light and lie in bed. If you wish the lamp were higher or brighter, you've gained important information regarding what to look for when purchasing a new lamp.

    3

    Measure the distance from where you would like to place a lamp and where the nearest outlet is. Refer to these measurements when shopping for lamps. Reconsider your lamp placement if it would require using extension cords in an unsightly or hazardous manner. Use an extension cord with a switch if it makes the lamp more functional. You soon will tire of using a lamp that is awkward to operate.

    4

    Coordinate the style and color of the lamps with the general decor of your room. A Tiffany-style lamp would look out of place in a strictly contemporary bedroom. However, if you prefer a more eclectic style there is no reason not to choose a unique or unusual lamp that makes a statement, as long as it is functional for your bedroom.

How to Set Up Routing Tables

A routing table is a simple file on a computer that lets the computer know how to find other computers. Specifically, it describes the way a packet needs to go to find another node (computer) on the network. Most modern computers build their own routing tables based on communication between devices (such as computers and routers). The routing table will tell the computer which device (network card, wireless card) to use for a specific list of IP addresses.

Instructions

    1

    View your current routing table with the route command. In Linux, type "route" at a command line, and the system will list the current routing table. This will let you see what has already been set up and what still needs to be configured. In Windows, type "route print" to obtain the current routing table.

    2

    Add the loopback entry for your system. This is done with the command:
    route add -net 127.0.0.1
    This will set up the system to understand that the 127.0.0.1 address belongs to the machine itself.

    3

    Add the default gateway to the routing table. This is done with this command:
    route add default gw gateway_IP_address
    Replace the last parameter, "gateway_IP_address," with the IP address of your gateway computer. This IP address must already be defined, or this command will give you an error.

    4

    Add additional routes if you have additional network cards/devices in your machine:
    route add -net 192.168.1.100 netmask 255.255.0.0 eth2
    This will direct all traffic that starts with 192.168 to the eth2 device on your computer. This would be useful if you have a large local network and need all 192.168 traffic to head in one particular direction.

    5

    Remove unused routes. Routes that you do not need can be removed with the command:
    route delete 192.168.1.100
    This will remove the route that tells the network to use the route associated with the 192.168.1.100 address.

Thursday, August 22, 2013

How to Make a Bedside Caddy

How to Make a Bedside Caddy

You may throw your spare change, glasses, a USB drive and anything else in your pockets onto your bedroom night stand. The problem with doing this is that you oftentimes cannot find any of these items when you need them again. Simplify your life by recycling an old backpack into a bedside caddy with a minimal amount of cutting and no sewing. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Empty out the backpack, and clean up any dirty spots on the outside.

    2

    Unzip or unfasten the backpack top. The top flap will be tucked between your bed's mattresses to hold your bed caddy firmly in place.

    3

    Cut off the back pack straps and any other straps you think you will not need.

    4

    Use the main space of the back pack for larger items like books, tissue boxes and notebooks. Keep your pens, pencils, cell phone and USB drive in a zipped pocket so they don't fall out. Put your glasses in a side pocket so you can find them. Make more tear-away pockets by cutting netting to your desired pocket size, and securing it in place with Velcro tape.

    5

    Tuck the top of the back pack between your bed's mattresses to hold it in a spot where you can easiy reach it.

Wednesday, August 21, 2013

How to Get Stains Out of Tablecloths

How to Get Stains Out of Tablecloths

When friends and family gather around the table for good times and good food, accidents are bound to happen. Your tablecloth is often the victim if gravy dribbles, a glass of wine spills, a cup of coffee is tipped over, or a candle melts. If you know the type of stain, you're ahead of the game, as knowing what spilled helps you know the best way to treat the stain. The most important thing is to treat the stain as soon as possible. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Treat wine and other alcoholic-beverage stains as soon as possible, as the sugar in the alcohol will leave a brown stain on the fabric. Place the tablecloth in a sink or plastic basin filled with the hottest water safe for the fabric and a few drops of liquid dish soap. Add 1/2 cup color-safe bleach if the stain has already set in. Allow the tablecloth to soak for at least two hours, then rinse thoroughly. Spray red-wine stains with cool water immediately to keep the stain from setting in, then soak the tablecloth in water and soap as directed.

    2

    Treat blood stains immediately by running a stream of cold water through the stain. When you've removed as much of the blood as possible, place the tablecloth in a sink or plastic basin with a mixture of 1 tsp. of liquid dish soap, 1 tbsp. ammonia and 1 quart lukewarm water. Allow the tablecloth to soak for 15 minutes, then rub the stain from the wrong side of the fabric. Allow the tablecloth to soak in the solution for another 15 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.

    3

    Scrape dry candle wax from your tablecloth with a dull table knife. When you've removed all the wax that you can, place the stained area between two layers of paper towels. Press the paper towels with a warm iron, replacing the paper towels as the paper becomes stained with the wax.

    4

    Remove coffee or tea stains by saturating the stain with a laundry prewash stain remover. Allow the stain remover to penetrate the stain for about five minutes. Place a few drops of a heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent on the stain and rub the detergent into the stain. Place the tablecloth in a sink or plastic basin filled with warm water and allow the tablecloth to soak for at least two hours. Add a color-safe bleach to the water if the coffee or tea stain is old. Rinse thoroughly in lukewarm water.

    5

    Treat pasta sauce and other tomato stains by soaking the stain with a laundry prewash stain remover. Allow the stain remover to penetrate the fabric for one to two minutes, then rub a few drops of a heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent into the stain.

    6

    Apply a prewash stain remover to gravy stains as soon as possible. Fill your washing machine with warm water. Add an enzymatic laundry detergent and a small amount of color-safe bleach, according to the directions on the product label. Allow the tablecloth to soak in your washing machine overnight. Drain the water and finish by washing the tablecloth in hot water and your usual laundry detergent.

    7

    Sprinkle salt over butter and grease stains to absorb the grease. Pretreat the stain with laundry stain prewash stain remover, or rub a few drops of heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent into the stained area.

    8

    Wash your tablecloth -- by hand or in the washing machine, depending on the method most appropriate for the fabric -- once the stains are gone. Check the stained areas carefully before placing your tablecloth in the dryer. If the stain remains, repeat the cleaning technique or try a different technique. Never place a stained tablecloth in the dryer, as the heat will set the stain.

How to Get Wrinkles Out of a Paper Tablecloth

How to Get Wrinkles Out of a Paper Tablecloth

Paper tablecloths are disposable options for covering tables at parties and other events. They come in a variety of colors and patterns, and can be purchased at party supply of home stores. They are often sold folded, so wrinkles are quite probable when taking them out of the package. Even though they are an inexpensive option for table coverings, wrinkles can make them look less elegant than if they were straight and smooth. There are a few methods for getting wrinkles out of paper that can work for paper tablecloths and other paper products. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Water and Heavy Objects

    1

    Place the tablecloth on a flat surface.

    2

    Fill up your water bottle. Mist a small area of the paper tablecloth with a light amount of water. Place a heavy flat object, such as a book, over the wet area.

    3

    Allow time to dry before lifting the book. Repeat the process on other wrinkled areas of the tablecloth.

Iron and Towels

    4

    Lay the tablecloth on a flat surface. Mist a small wrinkled section of it with water. Cover this area with a kitchen towel.

    5

    Heat the iron to low heat. Gently press the iron over the area covered with the kitchen towel.

    6

    Remove iron and towel. Check to see if the wrinkles are gone from the paper tablecloth. Repeat if necessary.

How to Make a Data Table Online

How to Make a Data Table Online

Data tables list various information in columns and rows for easy reading. The data is usually partly numerical with text labels. An example is a data table that shows how many calories someone eats each day.Making a data table online can be done with HTML or the more complex CSS browser language. The final table looks just like a data table created in a spreadsheet or on paper. The only difference is the background coding, which is not seen unless looking at the source code. The coding can be created by HTML editors, text, or other ways. There are many sites online that offer the ability to enter data, set a few attributes and create all of the table coding for you. Online data tables are usually used as part of a Web page. Data tables are often used to create lists of items with categories, such as items for sale. Some Web pages use them to show statistics for information. While data tables can be used offline for printing or in reports, it is usually better to use spreadsheet software, such as Microsoft Office Excel, which offer many more features for working with data.This guide shows how to create an HTML data table with Notepad.

Instructions

Instructions

    1

    Open an HTML editor or just an ordinary Notepad text document to enter HTML code. Notepad works well if you are accustomed to HTML coding. HTML editors make repetitious tasks faster, but some, like Frontpage, add extra, unnecessary coding that can slow Web pages down. The best thing to do is code with an HTML editor first, then go back and edit the code by hand to clean it up.

    2

    Decide the table attributes for the border, width, background color and font colors. You need to take into account the Web page layout, width, colors and other attributes to make the table easily readable. You also need to decide on how many rows and columns are needed for the data. Begin defining the table attributes. (Our example shows the number of calories eaten at lunch and dinner on each weekday. We need three columns (Day, Lunch and Dinner) and seven rows (two for labels and one for each weekday).

    3

    Add a border around the table and data cells. Borders separate the data into cells for easy viewing. It is measured in pixels and can be given a value of 0 to not use them. A one or two-pixel border is generally fine. The tag for the border is (bgcolor=border="CHOSEN_BORDER_WIDTH"). The border color can be changed with the tag (bordercolor="CHOSEN_COLOR"), which utilizes the basic colors terms, such as red or black or six-digit hexadecimal color codes. Hexadecimals offer more colors. (Our example uses border="2" and bordercolor="black".)

    4

    Determine the width of the whole table. It is measured in pixels or percent of screen size. Pixels are definitive and percentages allow the table to adjust to different screen sizes. Try to judge the width based on the width of the data across the rows. If you later find out the table is too thin or wide, it can be changed. (Our example uses width="175")

    5

    Set the background color of the data cells. It is different than the background color of the page, which can offer good contrast. The tag is (bgcolor="CHOSEN_COLOR"), just like the border color. (Our example uses bgcolor="white")

    6

    Set the font color of the text in the cells. Make sure the color contrasts well with the background, so it is easily readable. Light on dark or dark on light always work best. The tag is (font="CHOSEN_COLOR"). (Our example is font="black", which contrasts well with the white background.)

    7

    Write out the complete table tags between a left and right arrow with a space between tag attributes and beginning with the table tag in front. The order of the tags does not matter, as long as "table" is out front. (Our example is

    )

    8

    Determine the column widths. The width of each column depends on the width of the whole table. Take the table width and divide it by the number of cells to get evenly sized columns. If necessary, adjust the column widths, but the total cannot exceed the table width. When one cell width changes, the other cells need to be adjusted to total the table width. (Our example has a width of 175 and three columns per row, so an even-split of about 59. The actual split is 70, 60, 40.)

    9

    Begin adding your data. First, begin a new line and add a table row with the code (

    ). Next, add a table data tag (". The bordercolor tag is used to specify the cell border color, if desired. If it is left out, the default table bordercolor is used. (Our example's first cell code is "")

    10

    Repeat creating table data cells, each on a new line, until all cells in the row are complete. Then end the row with the tag (

    ). Begin the next row with the same process, starting with the () tag again.

    11

    Close the table code. First, end the font with the "" tag and then the table with the with "

    ). Enter your data for the cell; use the code () to represent blank cells. Close the cell with the tag "
    " tag. (Our final table code, if ended after the first row, is below.)
    CALORIES

Monday, August 19, 2013

Centerpiece Ideas for a Bar

It's easy to make your own edible centerpieces for a bar; all you need is a little imagination and a few craft supplies. Dip strawberries in chocolate and arrange them like flowers in a field for a summery centerpiece that can run the length of your bar. Of line the bar with bowls of sugary fruit to create sparkling holiday centerpieces or add small tiers of nuts and dried fruit for an edible centerpiece that suits your bar atmosphere anytime. Does this Spark an idea?

Strawberry Field

    Create an edible centerpiece for your bar with strawberries dipped in chocolate and arranged in an S formation around piles of raspberries, white yogurt raisins and almonds. The raspberries and almonds complement the colors of the strawberries and the chocolate, while the white yogurt raisins ties in with some white skewers. To make chocolate-dipped strawberries, melt chocolate chips or chocolate bark, skewer the fat end of the strawberries and dip the tips into the chocolate. Make the S shape for your centerpiece out of floral foam or craft foam and insert the skewers along the top. Cover the base of the skewers and the foam with complementary silk flowers. Place the raspberries, almonds and raisins in shallow glass bowls along the S formation.

Sugary Fruit Centerpiece

    A simple bowl of sugared fruit can be a lovely centerpiece for your bar during the holidays. It's easy to make sugared fruit. Just insert a floral pick or a skewer into the fruit, dip it in egg whites and sprinkle it with finely granulated sugar. Keep adding sugar until it appears white on the fruit. Your sparkling fruit should be dry in about 30-minutes. Create a fruit bowl or use skewers to insert them into floral foam as part of a floral centerpiece. The fruit will last as long as it normally would without refrigeration. Feed your spent sugary fruit to the birds.

Nuts & Fruit

    One of the easiest ways to create an edible centerpiece for your bar is to fill small, three-tiered trays with salted nuts and dried fruit. Place the trays down the center of a long bar or make a large fruit and nut tray to place in the center of a small bar. Add a few sprigs of fresh rosemary and thyme to each tier to break up the array of nuts and fruit.

How to Make a Simple Desk Table

How to Make a Simple Desk Table

It's easy to cut out a simple desk and build it in one afternoon, using only one piece of plywood and a few pieces of hardwood lumber. This desk utilizes hardwood plywood to give it beauty and a working surface that is smooth and flat. By using jambs cut from the same piece of plywood as the top, it has matching surfaces and the strength to hold up anything you want to stack on it like computers, copiers or printers. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Set a table saw at 24 inches and rip the plywood lengthwise. Reset the table saw at 22 inches and rip another piece of plywood. Reset the table saw and crosscut the 24-inch piece at 48 inches for the top of the desk. Set the saw again and crosscut two pieces, 29 1/4 inches from the 22-inch stock for the leg jambs.

    2

    Set the miter gauge at 45 degrees and miter all the ends of the 49 1/2-, and the 25- 1/2-inch fascia, being careful not to lose any length. Glue and nail them flush to the edge of the top using the finish nails, letting the mitered ends come together and the 3/4-inch lip face down. When the glue is dry, hand-sand the top with a sand block, using 100-grit sandpaper.

    3

    Glue and nail a 29 /14-inch fascia to both sides of the leg jambs, letting the 3/4-inch lip overhang to the inside of the leg. Stand the leg jambs up 36 inches apart, bracing them with chairs. Glue and place a stretcher between the jambs just behind the 3/4-inch lip and flush with the top. Nail it with a finish nail. Do this to both sides on all four corners. Now pre-drill with a 1/8-bit and finish securing the stretcher to the leg jambs by screwing it with 2-inch wood screws.

    4

    Glue and screw the screw cleats to the top of the jambs flush with the top between the stretchers. Now space evenly and drill four holes vertically through the screw cleats. Drop the top down over the leg jambs. Crawl under the table and screw the top on using 8 1 1/4-inch wood screws.

How to Build a Pull Out Keyboard Shelf

How to Build a Pull Out Keyboard Shelf

Purchasing a computer desk and discovering it is too small to accommodate a computer keyboard is disappointing. While some desks come with a pull-out keyboard shelf, other models do not. Building a pull-out shelf, whether for a small desk or a large desk, is easy. Adding such a shelf will provide you with more work space.

Instructions

Preparation

    1

    Cut a 7-inch by 22-inch plywood piece.

    2

    Sand the edges and corners until smooth.

    3

    Paint or stain the keyboard shelf and allow it to dry overnight.

Installation

    4

    Separate the tracks from the base tracks. Set aside the large 3-inch parts.

    5

    Line up the shelf beneath the desk top. Mark where the bases of the sliding tracks should be on either side of the shelf. Install both sliding bases.

    6

    Secure the other sliding track components to the 7-inch ends of shelf.

    7

    Reattach the sliding tracks by sliding the shelf tracks into the base tracks installed beneath. This may need to be done at an angle. Once the tracks click together, pull the shelf in and out a few times. Place the keyboard on the shelf.

Saturday, August 17, 2013

DIY Rustic Farm Tables

Rustic farm tables are sturdy -- almost indestructible to the rigors of family life -- while still adding beautiful accents to most modern kitchens.The rough finish invites you to work away, making bread, chopping vegetables or simply having a cup of coffee. Create a table to reflect your personality and to provide a center for eating, homework, socializing and projects within your home. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Format the base by cutting two long boards and two short boards. Cut the long boards into 48-inch sections and the shorter one into 30-inch sections.

    2

    Form a rectangle with the boards on their sides on the floor, keeping the longer boards on the outside and the shorter ones on the inside of each joint. Glue every joint. Screw the ends together with 3-inch wood screws, pre-drilling pilot holes to keep from cracking the wood. Place two screws on the outer edges, spaced evenly apart, one-half inch in toward the center. The finished rectangle should be 48 inches long by just under 34 inches wide.

    3

    Strengthen the base by adding two 30-inch cross joints of the same lumber as the sides of the base across the width of the table. Measure from corner to corner to make sure the base is square, and screw the cross sections in place with two 3-inch wood screws straight through the sides of the base, pre-drilling pilot holes.

    4

    Stand a table leg or a piece of hardwood at least 2 by 2 inches thick in each corner, squaring up the sides. Glue each intersection. Attach the legs by pre-drilling pilot holes and inserting a drip of wood glue before inserting the 3-inch wood screws.

    5

    Screw into both side of the legs through the base, two screws on each side about one inch apart. Alternate the height of the screws to keep them from crossing. Turn the base upright.

    6

    Lay enough 5-foot planks on the floor, side by side, to create a 5-by-3-foot tabletop. Position two 6-by-1/2-inch boards, 34 inches long, across the planks, lining up the edges on the ends. Push the planks together tightly.

    7

    Drill two pilot holes through the cross sections into each plank two inches and four inches in from the edge. Add wood glue to the holes and secure the planks to the cross sections with 1-inch wood screws.

    8

    Set the tabletop onto the base, positioning it between the cross sections. Attach the top to the base with 1-inch L-brackets positioned every 12 inches on the inside of the base. Secure it with screws.

    9

    Seal the table by rubbing tung oil into the surface, working in circles with a soft, clean rag until water beads instead of absorbing into the wood.

Friday, August 16, 2013

How to Make a Table Cloth for a Card Table

How to Make a Table Cloth for a Card Table

A card table is an inexpensive way to add much-needed seating to your holiday festivities or family dinners. On their own, however, their bland metal and canvas look can leave much to be desired. With some basic sewing supplies and a little bit of creativity, you can cover your boring card table with a tablecloth you make yourself. You can make it in less than an hour and coordinate it with your other table linens. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Measure the table. Most card tables are have four even sides and are either 34 or 36 inches square; however, to make sure your tablecloth fits perfectly, take your time and measure all four sides. Decide how far you want your tablecloth to hang down on each side and measure from the top of the table to the place you want your tablecloth to end. Write down your measurements.

    2

    Add up the measurements. Figure our your fabric yardage needs. If you have a 36-inch square table and want your tablecloth to hang down 6 inches on each side, you need a finished product that is 48 inches square. Add 1/2-inch to each side for the seam allowance. One yard of fabric is 36-by-44 inches. For a 48-inch square tablecloth, you would need at least two lengths of 49-inch fabric, which includes seam allowance, for a total of 98 inches of fabric, or 2 2/3 yards of fabric.

    3

    Purchase the fabric. Fold it in half along the length, so that the selvedges are closest to you. Unfold and cut down the center line. You will have two pieces that are the length of your tablecloth plus 1 inch. In the example above, the length of the cut fabric would be 49 inches.

    4

    Unfold the fabric along the width, which is the fabric from selvedge edge to selvedge edge. Cut both pieces of fabric so the width is half of your total width measurement. In the example above, that would be half of 49 inches, or 24.5 inches.

    5

    Place the two pieces you just cut right sides together along the long raw edge; pin in place. Sew together using a straight stitch and a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam. Iron the seams open so they lay completely flat.

    6

    Fold down 1/4-inch toward the wrong side of the fabric. Press into place with an iron on all four sides of your tablecloth. Repeat so you have an enclosed folded edge on all four sides. Topstitch around all four sides with a 1/4-inch seam allowance from the folded edge. Iron and place on your card table.

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Table Tennis Prize Ideas

Table Tennis Prize Ideas

Table tennis, also known as ping pong, is a hobby for some and a passion for others. An avid table tennis player will enjoy receiving a table tennis-related prize for a special occasion or as a reward for a game win or competition. Also use table tennis prizes for a themed birthday party. Does this Spark an idea?

Table Tennis Balls

    Table tennis players know that their balls, sometimes called "ping pong balls," can get dented during game play making them unusable. Give a bucket of balls as a prize for a table tennis competition or individual game. Novelty balls can be purchased at sporting good stores and sometimes at department stores. Ping pong balls come in a variety of colors and styles, including balls that look like other balls such as baseballs or basketballs and feature other decorative elements such as smiley faces.

Paddles

    Paddles are an integral part of the game and make a nice prize for table tennis lovers. Buy high quality table tennis paddles at a sporting good store. Some paddles have a rough paddle surface while others have a smoother surface. Choose a paddle with a logo or other attractive visual element to give as a gift.

Trophies & Rewards

    Create a trophy to give as a table tennis prize. Trophies can be purchased at personalized at trophy stores, but you can make your own trophy out of simple materials. Buy a base at a craft supply store and stain or paint it. Then paint a table tennis paddle and ball with gold metallic spray paint. Mount the paddle and ball onto the base. Also consider giving a red or blue ribbon as a prize.

Other Table Tennis Prize Ideas

    Other prizes include a carrying case for paddles and balls or wall organizer to keep the paddles and ball organized. A score board is also a prize worth considering. Also, consider giving a gift card to a sporting goods store where the recipient can pick-out his own paddles, balls or even table. Another prize possibility is a photo frame where the recipient can display a picture of herself. Decorate the frame with craft foam paddles and ping pong balls.

Tuesday, August 13, 2013

How to Build a Wood Desk

How to Build a Wood Desk

A wood desk is a welcome addition to any home or office. Desks offer a convenient place at which to read or work. Wooden desks are available in a wide range of prices and styles. Many are models of beauty and utility. In its simplest form, a wooden desk is a narrow table. You can build a wood desk out of easily available materials, and without much effort.

Instructions

    1

    Make 4 x's, in pencil, near each of the 4 corners of the wooden board. Each x will mark the center of each leg of your wood desk. The x's should be in identical positions at each corner.

    2

    Center a leg against one of the x's. Nail the board securely to the leg through the top side of the board. You will need to use 3 or 4 nails. Repeat for the other 3 legs.

    3

    Stand the table up on its legs. The table should be even. If the table is not even, sand the bottom of the longer leg.

    4

    Fill the nail holes on the top of the wood desk with wood putty. Use sandpaper to finish.

    5

    Sand away any rough spots on the top and sides of your wood desk. Stain the finished desk in your preferred color. You may also use a clear stain. Staining helps to protect the wood.

Monday, August 12, 2013

How to Date Vintage Tablecloths

How to Date Vintage Tablecloths

Vintage tablecloths are a link to the past. They represent the mood of the U.S. during several world wars, the climb of the middle class and the changes in socializing and manufacturing that occurred along the way. Knowing textile history will assist a collector in dating a vintage tablecloth. Although the history of the tablecloth dates into the 19th century, vintage items will be found during the last 100 years, 1910 to the present.

Instructions

Preparation

    1

    Examine the tablecloth for a manufacturer's mark or signature. Identify the fabric used, the way it was constructed (screen printed, woven) and its overall condition.

    2

    Measure the tablecloth, and take a photo of the tablecloth (particularly its pattern) to refer to when doing research. Make note of the colors used and the theme of the pattern.

    3

    Keep track of all collected information in a small notebook or on the computer for future reference if you collect tablecloths.

Dating The Cloth

    4

    Investigate the date of the fabric armed with the information gathered from section 1 of this article. Investigate items with manufacturer's marks via manufacturer name.

    5

    Research the theme of the cloth for further clues as to the era the tablecloth was made in. For example, WWI tablecloths (1914 to 1920) produced unstable dyes that faded easily and what are referred to as "sweetheart" themes---fairies, peacocks, flowers, moons and stars. The 1920s produced many floral patterns and an interest in the Middle East and The Orient. The 1950s were about prosperity, and the tablecloths became entertaining and reflect quirky, witty themes filled with fanciful cartoon figures and bold geometric patterns designed for use during neighborhood barbecues, cocktail parties and social events.

    6

    Identify the dye and colors of the fabric to reveal a tablecloth before or after a certain point in time. Green dyes are not produced as color fast until the 1930s, which means if the colors were used in earlier eras they will be faint and ghost-like in appearance while the other colors in the cloth will be strong in color.

    7

    Look for grinning to date a 1930's tablecloth. Grinning is the use of the white cloth to separate colors and designs in the pattern of the cloth, which kept colors from running or overlapping during the printing process.

    8

    Consider the quality of the fabric. WWII tablecloths are usually of an inferior quality due too wartime shortages. Plastic tablecloths did not appear until the 1960s.

Sunday, August 11, 2013

How to Use Drums As Nightstands or End Tables

Drums are a work of art; they are made with precision and out of the finest woods. Many drums sit in attics, basements and garages just collecting dust, when they could be utilized as a table for your bedroom or family room. Although they are an instrument, using them for dcor can be done by changing them into a table. Using plywood, glass and tack putty, you can assemble your own tables. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Turn A Drum Into A Table

    1

    Place a piece of round cut tabletop glass on top of a drum and it instantly becomes a table. Two of the same can be arranged on either side of a couch or bed as an end table or night stand. To secure the glass top to the drum, use nail putty or tack putty, which is easily removed and does not damage the wood on the drum. Roll four tiny pieces of the nail putty into small pellet-sized balls. Remember the putty will show through the glass, so it needs to be neat in appearance. Place the four pellets equally spaced around the rim of the drum and place the glass on top of them. Use light pressure to make them stick.

    2

    Use a piece of wood as a tabletop for your drums if you have small children or pets that are active. Have a small piece of plywood cut to size at your local home store for each drum. It can be square or round, either shape will work. Stain the plywood using stain that matches the wood tone on the drum, or a few shades darker. Keep with the theme of the drum and finish the edges of the plywood with natural rope or leather strapping, whichever you prefer. You can anchor the top with the nail putty once you are done.

    3

    Place a smaller drum on top of a larger drum for a layered end table look and for more height to the table. Using plywood cut to the size for the top of the larger drum will support the weight of the smaller drum on top. Use glass or plywood as the tabletop. Stick the pieces together using the nail putty.

    4

    Measure the length of the drum and pick up three small wooden legs at your local home store. Make sure you get the right size legs to bring the drum up to the height you want for a table. Paint or stain the legs and screw them into the bottom of the drum. Put them at equal spaces away from each other to balance the table. Use glass or plywood for the tabletop.

A DIY Outdoor Bar

A DIY Outdoor Bar

Add an element of fun and excitement to your patio or pool area by incorporating an outdoor bar. Cut down on trips to the kitchen to refresh your guests' drinks by having all you need in a handy place. You can order a Tiki Bar kit and assemble it on site or you can build a one-of-a-kind bar from scratch. Bars are typically 2 feet deep and 40 inches high, so you'll need a flat, stable area that can accommodate that depth. If you have the necessary space, you can have fun selecting weather-resistant finishes for the skin of the bar and the bar top. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Build the Frame

    1

    Select an area near the pool or patio that has a level and solid foundation made of either concrete or brick. You may have to build this foundation first. Measure the space to make certain it can accommodate an area 2 feet deep and 40 inches high. Determine how long you can make the bar.

    2

    Build a skeleton for the bar out of 2-by-4s. Start with the front, or customer side. Cut two 2-by-4s to your desired length. Cut two more pieces 39 inches long for each end. Cut additional 2-by-4 pieces and space them every 16 inches apart between the long top and bottom pieces. Use carpenter's glue and wood screws to piece this unit together. Screw an additional 2-by-4 across the middle of the back side of this unit for extra durability.

    3

    Build two sides for the bar that are 39 inches high by 17 inches wide, with a brace in the middle. Glue and screw together.

    4

    Build the bartender's side by placing a 2-by-4 on the floor, the same length as the front piece. Make two side uprights 39 inches high. Space out along the long board three 2-by-4s that are 21 inches in height. Cut a length of 2-by-4 to fit between the two uprights, and screw it on top of the 21-inch uprights. Glue and screw this piece together.

    5

    Assemble these pieces together by putting the side pieces between the front and the bartender sides. Glue and screw these pieces together.

Finish the Bar

    6

    Add an outer skin to the bar on the customer side. This can be either a weather-resistant treated wood, a wood with a shellac finish or even metal. Attach with wood screws or rivets.

    7

    Lay down a plywood bottom layer of the bar top. Cut out the corners so it rests inside the skeleton bar frame and is supported by 2-by-4s on all sides. Screw this piece into place.

    8

    Finish off the bartender side of the bar, using plywood that has been sealed with a water sealer. Cover the top of the bar side to create a ledge for storage.

    9

    Add a counter top of your choice, overhanging it on all sides by at least 6 inches. Affix to the plywood bottom counter with the manufacturer's suggested adhesive and clamp into place.

    10

    Finish the bar by adding a drink rail to the edge of the counter and caulk around the seam to seal it.

Saturday, August 10, 2013

How to Extend Farmhouse Tables

Farmhouse tables lend a rustic feel to the kitchen, dining room, parlor or enclosed patio. Typically fabricated of wood, such as oak or maple, its sturdy, simple style can add a sense of homey comfort to a space. While the bare farmhouse table may be less appropriate for formal events, an elegant tablecloth can help it rise to the occasion. On such special occasions, when the need to seat a larger than normal group of diners arises, you may wish to make the table larger. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Get the extender leaf or leaves. Some farmhouse table designs include a storage area for the leaves beneath the table's top. Others require you to find your own spot for leaf safekeeping. If you have not used the leaf in a while, you may want to dust or even polish it before using.

    2

    Grip the end of the table and pull to separate at its center. If your table is made of a denser wood, such as oak, you may need an extra pair of hands for this step.

    3

    Add the leaf or leaves by positioning carefully in the table's open center space.

    4

    Ease the table back together by sliding each end inward to abut the leaf.

Friday, August 9, 2013

What Is the Value of My Antique Veneer Vanity?

What Is the Value of My Antique Veneer Vanity?

Antique vanities, small dressing tables where a woman sits to do her hair and makeup, were made during the 18th, 19th, and early 20th centuries. Many of the veneered models seen today in antique stores and at local auctions are from the early 20th century. The value of antique veneered vanities depends on the age, condition, and type of wood.

Value

    Antique veneer vanities are generally valued from $250 to $1,500. Many variables impact the value. In a yard sale, you might find a veneer vanity for $20 but at Sotheby's, a high-end auction company, a rare or highly decorative antique vanity might sell for thousands, or occasionally, even hundreds of thousands of dollars.

Date and Country Factors

    The older an antique veneer vanity, the higher the value. Additionally, antique vanities from England, France, and Germany are generally worth more than American pieces.

Condition Factors

    If the antique vanity has been stored and used gently, the value increases. However, veneer damages easily. If pieces or strips of veneer are missing, the value decreases significantly. Other damage such as repaired or replaced legs, feet, or drawer pulls also impacts the value.

Material Considerations

    Certain woods used in the construction of an antique veneer vanity increase the value. Tiger eye maple or burl wood, for example, would make the antique worth more than walnut or plain maple.

Related Items

    If the antique vanity has its original mirror or stool, the value increases. These items are often lost over the years so a vanity accompanied by a mirror or stool is considered less common, more unique, and therefore more valuable.

Thursday, August 8, 2013

How to Replace a Dell Laptop Keyboard

How to Replace a Dell Laptop Keyboard

Laptop keys are fragile and flimsy and if you use the laptop keys a lot, chances are, at least one will pop-off. If this happens, you can probably end up replacing it. Even if you have warranty coverage, Dell Computers will insist that you change the keyboard and will not pay a technician to replace the laptop keyboard for you. This article will tell you how to replace the keyboard on an Inspiron 1501 laptop.

Instructions

    1

    Order item number J617 from Dell computers. It will arrive with everything you need except the small Philip screwdriver. The package will contain the instruction manual, plastic scribe and of course the new keyboard.

    2
    lay laptop flat

    First, turn the laptop off, disconnect power source and remove the battery. Then, lay the laptop flat (180) on the table or desk where you plan to change the keyboard.

    3
    insert scribe and pop up the hinge cover

    Using the plastic scribe, gently insert under the hinge cover's corner and lift the hinge cover off of the laptop. Be gentle. May require a little wiggling to ensure the little connectors pop out of their location.

    4
    remove hinge cover

    Once the hinge cover is removed, lay it to the side.

    5

    Locate the two small M2.5 x 5mm screws that attach the keyboard to the laptop and use the small Phillips screwdriver to remove them. There is at least one on each side of the laptop. They were hidden by the hinge cover and should be visible once that cover is removed.

    6

    Use the plastic scribe, insert under keyboard and gently lift. Little nodules on the end of the key board and a keyboard cable in the center secure the keyboard to the laptop. Gently wiggle the keyboard until it is loose.

    7

    Pull up on the keyboard cable until it pops loose. Set the bad keyboard to the side.

    8

    Take the new keyboard and insert the cable into the cable slot on the laptop. Press the cable lift down on top of the cable and secure it. (It is imperative that you get this part right otherwise, the keyboard will not work when you put it back together!).

    9

    Insert the nodules on the end of the keyboard in their respective slots and replace the two M2.5 x 5mm screws.

    10

    Replace the Hinge Cover.

    11

    Turn the laptop on and - VOILA! You are back in business.

Wednesday, August 7, 2013

How to Repair a File Allocation Table

How to Repair a File Allocation Table

The file allocation table on your Windows 7 operating system controls the startup disc and the boot processes on your computer. When the file allocation table is not working properly, you might not be able to boot your computer. Repairing your file allocation table is not a very hard process when you use the Windows 7 repair options. These options can be accessed by using your Windows 7 installation disc and your computer's keyboard.

Instructions

    1

    Boot your computer with the Windows 7 operating disc in the computer's optical drive.

    2

    Wait for the computer to boot from the disc and then click on the language that you prefer from the menu. Click the "Next" button.

    3

    Click on the "Repair your computer" option and then click your Windows 7 operating system from the menu. Click the "Next" button.

    4

    Click the "Startup Repair" button.

    5

    Wait for the computer to repair your file allocation table.

Monday, August 5, 2013

How to Build a Hinged Work Table for a Garage

How to Build a Hinged Work Table for a Garage

There are times when you need a temporary work space in the garage, and times when having a work table interferes with the use of the garage. Consider building a hinged work bench that can be quickly and easily stored when you don't need it. Building a collapsible design meets your need for a working area without interfering with other garage activities and makes an interesting weekend project as well. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

How to Build the Work Table

    1

    Place the two 48-inch boards on a flat work area. Stand the boards up on the narrow side. Insert one 34-1/2-inch board flush between each end, also on the narrow edge. Run two 2-1/4-inch screws through each end of the long pieces and into the ends of the 34-1/2-inch boards.

    2

    Determine which end will be farthest from the wall. Measure 2-1/2-inches inside the frame and lay the final 34-1/2-inch board flat inside the frame at that location. Attach it with two of the long screws through the frame on each side. This board is where the legs will be mounted.

    3

    Center the 24-3/4 inch board against the inside of the frame on the outside end of the table. Attach this board directly to the 34-1/2-inch end piece using four 2-1/4-inch screws spaced along it's length.

    4

    Turn the frame over so the top faces up. Line up the piece of plywood flush with one outside corner. Insert 1-inch screws clockwise around the plywood, spaced every six inches. Square the frame by lining up the edge of the plywood with the frame before putting in each screw.

How to Make the Work Table Collapsible

    5

    Turn the table over so that the plywood is facing down. On the wall-mounted end, measure in 10 inches from each side and make a small mark on the narrow edge of the end-piece. Place the outside edge of a hinge against the mark on each side and attach the hinges.

    6

    Stand the two 41-1/2-inch boards inside the gaps at the outside end of the table. Slide the legs tight against the leg mount. Attach the two remaining hinges to the legs and to the mounting board. Test the legs to make sure that they fold inside the table.

    7

    Find a stud in the garage wall. Measure 40 inches up from the floor along the stud, and make a small dot. Hold the final board flat against the wall with the top edge on the mark. Level it and mark the wall on the bottom edge of the board.

    8

    Place the final board flat against the outside of the table on the wall side. Fold the wall-side hinges open, flat against this board, and attach them with the remaining hinge screws.

    9

    Turn the table upright and fold out the legs. Have an assistant help to position the wall side so that the wall-mount board folds directly below the end of the table frame. Line up the board on top of the mark on the wall. Insert two screws on each end of the board.

How to Price an Antique Maple Dressing Table

Pricing an antique maple dressing table takes a little time to find a good cross-section of prices for an excellent quality antique. Prices may vary somewhat, depending on your location, and whether you will need the maple dressing table shipped or not. Antiques are usually solid wood and extremely heavy--so bear that in mind if you are figuring shipping costs. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Call antique shops in your area; ask if they have any antique maple dressing tables for sale in their store, and if so, how much? Shipping a heavy antique item from any distance may be price-prohibitive, due to hauling and freight charges plus insurance; therefore, arrange to visit the shop and collect the item yourself.

    2

    Check out a Birdseye Antique Maple Dressing Table from an eBay seller (see Resources). The bidding is currently at $229 plus $119 shipping charges. The piece has a triple connected set of mirrors that are adjustable.

    3

    Take a look at a bargain-priced antique maple dressing table with matching bench--a steal at $400 (see Resources) Excellent condition, requires no repairs whatsoever, as you can see from the picture of the piece. Contact the seller.

    4

    Note this price for an antique maple dressing table offered by Buysell (see Resources) for $425. It's a charming birdseye, serpentine-fronted, ladies' low-boy dressing table with lyre-shaped mirror stand.

    5

    Look to Craigslist (see Resources) for this rare find of an antique maple dressing table with attached mirror for just $150. Check out the pictures of this excellent piece which would complement any woman's bedroom suite.

    6

    Bid at $100 for this Tiger maple, one draw, turned legs with turret corners, antique dressing table at Findcheapauctions (see Resources); a rather plain piece with no frills. Estimated selling price is placed by the optimistic seller at between $200 and $600. There is no mention of a shipping price.

Sunday, August 4, 2013

How to Wash Linen Tablecloths

Wash linen tablecloths similar to how you would wash regular laundry. Wash your tablecloths any time they are dirty or at least once a month. Decorative tablecloths collect dust over time. According to the LinenMe website, frequent washing improves the overall appearance of linen pieces. As with any type of fabric, using the incorrect type of cleaning solution damages the fabric fibers. Mild laundry detergent and baking soda do not damage the fibers. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Run the linen tablecloth under cold running water until damp.

    2

    Sprinkle a thin layer of baking soda over any stains on the tablecloth. Gently rub the baking soda into the linen with a fingertip. The water and baking soda combine to make a paste.

    3

    Place the linen tablecloth in a washing machine. Fill the machine with other linen items.

    4

    Add 1 capful of laundry detergent.

    5

    Run the washing machine with cold water.

    6

    Remove the linen tablecloth from the washing machine. Air dry by placing it on a clothesline or drying rack.

Tutorial for a Changing Pad With Pockets

Tutorial for a Changing Pad With Pockets

Changing pads are convenient to have with you when you need to change your baby's diaper, especially when you're on the go. This changing pad can easily be rolled or folded and stuffed in a diaper bag. The pocket design allows you to add wipes, diaper rash cream and diapers so you have a complete kit all in one place.

Instructions

    1

    Cut a piece of chenille or flannel fabric to 13 inches by 35 inches. Cut a piece of cotton print fabric to 13 inches by 35 inches. Stack the two pieces of fabric on top of each other, wrong sides of the fabric facing out. Pin the edges together.

    2

    Sew all the way around the edges leaving a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Leave one 4 inch section open on one of the shorter sides of the fabric. Cut off the excess fabric on all four corners.

    3

    Carefully turn the fabric inside out so the right side of the fabrics faces outward. Iron the edges of the cotton side. Pin the open hole closed with sewing straight pins. Sew the open short end all the way across with a top stitch.

    4

    With the chenille or flannel side facing up, fold one short end 6 1/2 inches over the main body of the fabric so the cotton side shows on this flap. Top stitch all the way around the outer edges with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

    5

    Cut a small piece of Velcro approximately 1 1/2 inches by 1/2 inch. Roll the changing pad as you would for transporting and storage. Pin the Velcro pieces in place where they will hold the changing pad closed. Sew the Velcro in place.

Friday, August 2, 2013

How to Build a Wood Makeup Vanity Table

How to Build a Wood Makeup Vanity Table

Putting on makeup or fixing hair at a vanity table is easier than standing in front of a bathroom sink or dresser. Dressing at a vanity table in the bedroom leaves the bathroom free for others to use. A vanity table does not need to be large, but make it large enough to accommodate a stool stored beneath it. Build a simple table consisting of a top and legs, or find intricate plans for a fancier table. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Measure the space for your table. Design a makeup table on paper to work in a bedroom space without overpowering the room. Either a square or kidney-shaped top is acceptable, and the table might have one or more drawers. Cut out paper templates that will serve as pattern pieces.

    2

    Assemble all wooden boards needed for the top. Glue and clamp boards to create a flat plane for cutting. After the surface is dry and solid, trace the top of the vanity table on the surface and cut. Alternatively, use half-inch thick plywood for the top. Cut the top with a jigsaw if you are making a kidney-shaped vanity table. A tabletop saw will work on a square top. Sand all surfaces.

    3

    Use a drill bit and attachment to create holes for wooden legs to fit into the top. Or, build solid sides and a back from wood boards or plywood that is sanded smoothly. Glue and screw the sections into place to form a base under the top.

    4

    Create one or more drawers by cutting a front surface with spaces left for the drawers. Install wood framework to hold the drawers and metal tracking for the drawers to slide on. Build the drawers separately, or use drawers you already have and design the table around their measurements.

    5

    Stain or paint the makeup vanity table. If you plan to leave the top bare with no type of covering, apply a couple of coats of sealer. This enables someone applying makeup to wipe up spills easily. If the table is square, consider installing small or large tiles. Mirror tiles can be installed to create a top as well.

    6

    Place the small stool in front of your vanity table and enjoy.

How to Build Beer Pong Tables

How to Build Beer Pong Tables

Beer pong is a game commonly played in college areas. The table is the largest and most important part of the game. There are no official rules for beer pong and the ones that are used vary greatly from coast to coast, state to state and college to college. Check the rules that others in your area follow before beginning construction of your table.

Instructions

    1

    Find a table to use as a base. This can either be a table that you already use, such as a kitchen table, or you can purchase a cheap folding table for just this purpose.

    2

    Cut the plywood to the correct measurements for the beer pong table. Technically, there are no official rules for the game of beer pong so the measurements of the table can vary greatly from area to area. The typical size is 8 by 4 feet.

    3

    Adjust the height of the table. Cut at least three pieces of 2-by-4 or 4-by-4 to the same width of your table. Lay the boards equally across the table. You can stack and nail several pieces of 2-by-4 in order to get the correct height that is required by the rules of your area. Again, the rules vary greatly so the height could be anywhere from 27.5 to 45 inches.

    4

    Draw boundary lines on the plywood top. There are typically three lines that are required by most rules: The mid line that divides the table in half, and the foul lines that are a foot from the edge of each side of the table.

    5

    Decorate the plywood. You can use paint, bottle caps or anything else you want to decorate the surface of your table.

    6

    Waterproof the plywood. It is best to coat the surface of the table in a waterproof sealer in order to protect the wood from water damage. This will protect the wood and make sure that your table lasts longer.

    7

    Set up the table you're using as a base, place the set of three 2-by-4 boards evenly across the table and place the plywood on top. This sets up the beer pong table for playing.

Thursday, August 1, 2013

How to Build a Built-In Computer Desk

How to Build a Built-In Computer Desk

Space is sometimes limited in a home or apartment. When that is the case, a creative approach needs to be taken when setting up a home office. A small alcove or closet can be converted into a work area by adding a built-in computer desk. You can frame the desk into the opening to create a functional work area that maximizes space. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Measure the depth of the alcove.

    2

    Measure and mark the dimensional lumber to cut four boards to fit into the alcove depth. These are the side frame boards. Use a miter saw to make the cuts.

    3

    Insert the side frame boards into the alcove. Place one with a 4-inch side flat against the floor against each side of the alcove. Screw the boards in place with evenly spaced wood screws approximately 3 inches apart.

    4

    Measure up from the floor 28 inches and mark the sides of the alcove at the measurement. Place one side frame board with the 4-inch face flat against the wall and the top edge level at the measurement marks on each side of the alcove. Screw the boards in place.

    5

    Cut two boards to fit into the width of the alcove between the side frame boards. These are the back frame boards. Measure with the side boards in place to ensure that the correct measurement is taken for the top and bottom back frame boards to fit between the side frame boards.

    6

    Place one back frame board between the bottom side frame boards with the 4-inch face flat against the floor. The board should be against the back wall of the alcove. Screw the board in place. Measure up 28 inches from the floor. Mark the measurement on the back wall. Place the remaining back frame board with the 4-inch face flat against the back alcove wall and the top edge aligned level with the 28-inch mark. Screw the board in place.

    7

    Measure the distance from the top face of the boards that are on the floor to the bottom face of the boards that are 28 inches up from the floor. This is the support board measurement.

    8

    Cut six support boards from the dimensional lumber using a miter saw. Place one board between the top and bottom boards at the front edge on both sides of the alcove. Place one board between the top and bottom boards at the back corners of the alcove. Evenly space the remaining boards between the bottom and top boards against the back wall of the alcove. Fasten the supports in place. Use wood screws evenly spaced every 3 inches.

    9

    Measure, mark and cut the plywood to fit into the alcove's width and depth. Cut the plywood with a table saw. Sand the edges with progressively finer sandpaper. Use a sanding block to ensure that the edges are completely smooth.

    10

    Apply edge banding to the front edge of the plywood panel. Follow the application directions supplied with the banding to apply it using a flat iron. Trim the top and bottom edges of the banding with an edge trimmer so that they are flush with the top and bottom plywood surfaces.

    11

    Slide the plywood panel over the dimensional wood framing inside the alcove. Drive screws through the panel into the edges of the framing boards. Space the screws every 6 inches.

    12

    Measure the front opening of the alcove. Measure, mark and cut the 1-by-4-inch dimensional hardwood board to fit inside the opening. This is the apron for the desk surface.

    13

    Place the facial board into the opening of the alcove. The facial board should cover the front edge of the plywood. The top edge of the facial board should be flush with the top surface of the plywood.

    14

    Apply a wood finish to the built-in desk. Allow the finish to dry.

Room Size for Pool Tables

Room Size for Pool Tables

A standard billiards table measures 4-1/2 feet by 9 feet, a size that many homes might not be able to accommodate, especially because you'll need much more space around the table to play comfortably.

Expert Insight

    EasyPoolTutor.com recommends that you need space equivalent to the dimension of the "playing area" plus the length of the cue stick on each side plus, at the very least, an extra 6 inches of space.

Playing Area

    When a person refers to the size of a billiards table, he usually means its "playable area"---the total area inside the cushion of the table border.

Room Dimensions

    A standard-size pool table needs a room with dimensions of at least 18 feet, 4 inches by 14 feet, 6 inches. Seven-foot pool tables require a room that's at least 16 feet, 8 inches by 13-1/2 feet.

Space Solutions

    You can fit a larger pool table in a smaller-than-recommended room by using a shorter pool cue. Using a cue that's 12 inches smaller than a standard cue, for example, reduces the necessary room dimensions by 2 feet for the length and width.

Tips

    When placing a pool table in a room with an obstacle, such as a pole, you should orientate the table so the obstacle resides on one of the long sides---it's easier to move the pool cue around because of the extra space. If that's not possible, the obstruction should be on the side you break from, because the balls will end up at the opposite end (called the foot).